Thread: Car died while driving and oil light came on.

Then, as I was rolling down the road, I put the car in neutral and started it back up with no issues. Made it home and I checked the oil, up to the full mark and golden brown/average look of 3.5 month old oil. No check engine lights, and I don't have an oil pressure gauge. I was thinking about running a slight amount of seafoam in the oil for a minute or two, then doing an oil change just for the hell of it since I have everything in the garage. I'm just unsure where to start as this happened for the first time and obviously my engine didn't blow up/seize. Any advice on where to start looking? Besides the local paper for a new car of course.

The oil light will come on if the car stalls.

Well that's good to know, meaning it may not be an internal problem. As of late, I feel my PS pump may be seizing up. My idle is very rough like its about to stall and when I turn the wheel this is even more apparent. I've had a steering rack leak, and I didn't even realize it until I did the control arms and was about to attempt the tie rods but I noticed the leak. So I stopped any attempt at fixing the tie rods until I researched a replacement steering rack. Long story short I'm going to take the accessory belt off and start the car tomorrow and see if the engine runs better to the point that something on the accessory side of things was causing it to stall.

sounds like a vac leak. get some carb cleaner and spray the vac lines around the engine, if the idle jumps up, you found your broken vac line.

and if the rack is leaking, fix that put new tie rods on when you do the rack, this way you only pay for one alignment.

and a possible crank sensor.

driving down the road and the car stalling for no reason usually adds up to a crank sensor.

I must have used two cans of carb cleaner trying to find a vacuum leak. If I do have one it must be one cheeky fock that's hiding somewhere. Crank sensor could be a possibility as well. As to the rack, I kept the outer TRE's and returned the inners, since pretty much any new rack comes with new ones along with the bellows.

move the vac lines when spraying the moving lines, and rubber connections, around the TB too.

cel on? if so have it scanned. a dirty TB as well can make it idle poorly.

Yeah I forgot to mention I finally changed my crank sensor shortly after this happened. Hasn't stalled since, so it looks like that was the issue. Thanks for chiming in guys.