Thread: Tell me the truth about L32 Connecting Rods

I have an opportunity to get some connecting rods from an L32 engine fairly cheaply. The block, crank and heads package I bought didnt have any connecting rods with it so I have to get my hands on some anyway.

What I really need to know is whether or not its worth it to get the L32 connecting rods. Are the OEM L67 rods going to be any cheaper? I have to get connecting rods one way or another but is the cost worth it. What would a set of L67 rods run?

Anyway, just thought I would seek the input of the community here so I can get this set up ready to go to the machine shop.

Oh, also, please dont say so and so vendor uses this and never had a problem. The reason I say that is that I personally have no clue as to whether or not they rebuild their engines each year or what they do to those things. Id much rather hear from real world usage.

If you were rebuilding an engine, what would drive you to use L32 connecting rods over L67 ones and vice versa.

why not just use an l32 block entirely?

Well I suppose I could have but this block, crank and heads were a steal so it was kinda hard to pass up.

L32 rods are "better" as in slightly stronger than what you would find in a L67.

No real testing has been done to prove this, but the way they are constructed is pretty much proof right there as to which one is better.

L67 rods = cast metal
L32 rods = powdered metal



L32 rods when installed, the "dots" you see on the arm of the rod are directional. 1,3,5 rods, the dots face the rear of the motor, 2,4,6 the dots face the front.

I bought my L32 rods cheap off another member way back when he was going to build him an engine, then decided to bail out. They were brand new from GM. I still have the Box's they came in, with the part numbers on them if anyone is interested.

~F~

Thanks for your input Farns. These I have an opportunity to buy are not new, but they are low mileage. According to Reptile, the L32 rods supersede the L67 ones anyway so even if I wanted to buy L67 rods new I couldnt it seems.

Those rods should be fine to use no problem.

~F~

The L32 rods are sinter forged which makes them a decent amount stronger. Not sure about the price differential. I think L26 rods are also sinter forged, making them on par with L67 rods if not a bit stronger, but not as strong as L32 rods.

Well the problem I have to deal with now is that the L32 connecting rods have a different pin diameter than the L67 rods. The L67's are 0.905" and the L32's are 0.895 I believe or might even be a bit smaller. But all the forged pistons out that I can find, namely diamond pistons all have connecting rod pins for the L67's.

L32 rods and 9:5.1 Coated Diamond pistons here.

~F~

Hmmm, thats odd. I wont be doing the coated pistons, but non of the information Ive seen shows that the L32 rods have the same pin diameter. Now you got me curious.

Holy crap what is up with people resurrecting dead threads lately?

Originally Posted by tayl5645

Holy crap what is up with people resurrecting dead threads lately?

I don't think it's a big deal if it is a legit question like that.

It's the people that bring up 2 year old kill story or post that sounds good...in exhaust threads...this however...I say is alright being brought back...it is good info as well.

Originally Posted by IBLOWN

Sorry to dig this up but which way do the rods actually go?


Here in post 11 you say the opposite.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/insta...l67-19438.html


Im building an L36 with L32 rods and pistons.

Lol ive had 4 different answers. Ive had all dots face the front. Biggest chamfer on big end of rods face nearest main cap (Which is the way ive installed). All dots face the rear. Bearing tangs to the pan rail.

The reason ive come across this problem is that i built the motor but didnt balance the bottom end. I decided to pull it all down and get a full balance which i did.

While putting the pistons back on the rods i noticed the small ends of the rods were touching the inside of one side of the pistons on the radius that has been machined. Its actually worn a little of it off while turning the motor over dialing in the cam.

When looking down on the assembly when the bottom end is installed i can see that the rod is not quite in centre of the wrist pin which makes me think that the rods are slightly offset from face to face ultimately making me think that the rods are the wrong way around.

So confused now lol.

Sh!t dude, sorry, I can't remember which way it goes when I built my engine. I had my "bible" that had EVERYTHING + some helpful info in to build a 3.8 up with stock and aftermarket parts, loaned it out...some stuff never came back with it. That was one thing I had in there. To be for sure...I'd have to drop my oil pan, and that ain't gonna happen. Maybe someone else can chime in and state what way is correct.

Reptile is a expert on the L67, L32 piston and rods, chime in buddy.

But what I typed here sounds right to me if I had to choose. 1,3,5 rods, the dots face the rear of the motor, 2,4,6 the dots face the front.

~F~

I removed my L32 rod bolts, and installed ARP's.

If you want to chance mine, your welcome to them. The rods I installed were brand new from GM, so unsure of they TTY them from the box or not. I can't remember if I really had to wrench them loose to get them off. I don't believe I did, nor would imangine GM would already tighten them form the get go.

I installed my ARP's, into my rods, torqued them, and had the rods line bored/honed to insure they were perfectly round before they went in with the aftermarket bolts.

I know where my bolts are if you want them, they are on my shelf of parts in the garage.

~F~

Australia...oh ****, you do.

Your welcome to them, as in they are free.

I guess...pay shipping would be fair. You can PM me your addy, and I can see what they will cost to get them to you, and you can see if that's worth it to you or not.

~F~