Thread: 2/27/13 edit: cooling issues!!

EDIT: Check out post #6!




Runs fine, only issue is a few times it has started and died right after. It has struggled to start and then died right after being started both times I've put gas in it.

Unfortunately not sure if they popped up at once or not, as I bought the car with the codes there.

1:P0118 - Powertrain Issue
Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input

The temp needle is pegged at zero - which sensor would it be that is bad, and where would I locate it? I tried searching for some answers but didn't have much luck.
Is this what I should try buying to fix the temp gauge issue, and that code?
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-TS10032-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B000CGK7V4/
If so can anyone link to a write-up, or give me a basic idea how to replace it?

2:P0122 - Powertrain Issue
Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input

Is there a good chance I just need to replace the tps?

If I look to buy a tps, and I look to buy one, is there any preferred brand, or are they really all the same?
Cheapest I can find is an SMP for $25 at rockauto (More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TH159T)
cheapest I can find an acdelco is amazon at $42 - Amazon.com: ACDelco 213-916 Throttle Position Sensor: Automotive

3:P0171 - Powertrain Issue
Fuel Trim System Lean (Bank 1)

This code seems to be the one that is most likely to be hard to chase. I figure I will try to tackle the other two, and see where I stand with this one after.

wow 3 lights? I only have one light when i have multiple codes lol. The coolant sensor is right under the thermostat. The 0171 is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere.

Make an account over at GPONA - Grand Prixs of North America to use their GM service manual to find out how to change the sensors. Also, it'll probably have other suggestions for why you got those codes.

The last one is probably a vacuum leak - check the rubber T off the nipple on the lower intake manifold under the supercharger snout. They dry rot off all the time.

p0171 is the egr tube at the manifold, it is crushed or leaking

Originally Posted by GTP in RTP

p0171 is the egr tube at the manifold, it is crushed or leaking

Often..it can be. That's not the only cause though. I'd start with the other two and see if the lean bank doesn't correct itself based on those fixes. If not, we can help you.

I got two lights... Regal..it's the extra light car.

Ok... I think my bad idle/car pulling/etc issues are fixed.
I haven't had any codes at all come back after cleaning everything(tb, iac, maf, etc), and replacing a bunch of parts like evap, hoses, etc.

Old thread, yes, but I just now trying to get this car really running.

I am still having issues with the cooling system.
I drained the coolant when I replaced the ECT sensor. I then refilled it, and bled it, and I at least thought I bled it well enough.
Earlier this week, I drove it to work. It is a five mile drive, takes about ten minutes to get there. The first 3.5 miles the temp needle is below 160, then all the sudden the needle take about 2 seconds and it rises all the way into the red, over 260. I park it at work, and notice a puddle of water/coolant underneath, not really sure where it came from. So I drove it home that evening and parked it(about the same situation on the drive home, needle jumps about a mile from the house, but this time no coolant puddle).

Yesterday I finally have time to work on it, so I pop the radiator cap off, and I'm able to add at least 2 quarts of my coolant mix. I started the car planning on trying to bleed the coolant. Car seems to take forever to warm, but once it does I open the bleeder valve, and at first nothing, then a strong spray of coolant(spraying hard, blasting the TB), and then nothing but lots of steam. I figure that means lots of air, so I decided I was going to fill it up at the LIM.
Went to AAP and bought a t-stat/gasket ring/radiator cap(why not?).

Today I went out, and I removed the t-stat, and added about a quart of coolant directly to the LIM. Then I installed the new t-stat.
Started the car, with the aeroforce hooked up this time. At first the aeroforce is reading 73*(that's about the temp outside, so seems correct). Dash gauge stays below 160 mark.
After about 3-4 minutes, the aeroforce reading goes from like 110 to 65498, and then gauge inside stays below 160. When the reading on the aeroforce shoots up, the fans come on. I let it keep running, and once the dash gauge was reading a few ticks above the 160 mark I open the bleeder screw.
At this point both hoses off the back of the engine are hot, the lower hose is hot, and the upper hose is hot, but not quite as hot as the others. Still too warm to hold onto though.
After a min I start getting coolant at the bleeder screw, then it stops for a while, fans turn off. I go back and look at the gauge and now the dash gauge says 260, and the aeroforce is reading like 193*. When it hits 195* I start getting coolant at the bleeder screw again, stops for a bit, starts again. Seems like a steady stream, so I think I have all the air out of the system.

Sorry, I was extremely wordy, but trying not to leave out any details that might help with diagnosis.


The ECT sensor I bought to replace the broken one was [link=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CGK7V4]this Delphi, purchased on Amazon[/link]

Did I possibly just get a bad ECT sensor?
If I did, should I try buying an ac delco to replace this delphi? Junkyard ECT sensor?

Thoughts, anyone?

Well if nobody has any other thoughts I guess I will be ordering an ac delco ECT sensor and seeing if that fixes my problems..

Hopefully won't be just throwing parts at it.

Originally Posted by Booba5185

My problem ended up being the ECT, I went into the diagnostic mode on the climate control display to see what the PCM was seeing the coolant temperature at (I don't have a code reader) and it was correct, gauge sender in the ECT is dead wrong. I got 2 bad ECTs in a row, so I'd try another one if I were you. Out of curiosity, are you using any type of thread sealant or RTV on the ECT? I did and I'm curious if that part of my problem.

Yes, I used a teflon tape to reinstall the ECT sensor, as that's what I believe I read somewhere on here..

I'll pull the replacement instructions from GM:


here they are:
Important: Care must be taken when handling engine coolant temperature sensor. Damage to the engine coolant temperature sensor will affect proper operation of the fuel injection system.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the radiator coolant.
3. Disconnect the ECT sensor electrical connector.
   
   
   
4. Using a 19 mm deep well socket and an extension remove the ECT sensor.

Installation Procedure

Important: Care must be taken when handling engine coolant temperature sensor. Damage to the engine coolant temperature sensor will affect proper operation of the fuel injection system.

1. Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
   
   
   
   
2. Hand start the ECT Sensor into the engine.Tighten
   Tighten the ECT Sensor to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
   
3. Connect the electrical connector.
4. Refill the radiator with coolant.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.
7. Check the coolant level.