L36 is more likely to pop than an L32 or L67 though.
|
L36 is more likely to pop than an L32 or L67 though.
what going to pop?
Pistons all around aren't great.
Rod bolts fail as well.
Ringlands on the n/a motors aren't as adequate for handling a supercharger.
ring gap isn't adequate for handing a roots blower pushed past 7 psi.
0.010-0.018 in
I would personally put the nitrous kit back on the Trans Am and step up the shot. LSx engines love nitrous. They stand up and applaud when you give them nitrous.
It's still a possibility...I'm more inclined to run nitrous on a $200 junkyard motor rather than a $11,000 built motor. I'm not scared of nitrous, but I am well aware that accidents do happen, even on the best set up systems. If I feel the T/A needs more power, I'll piece together another kit, or just continue saving for a turbo.
I'm thinking I should just get some forged pistons and be done with it.
The likely hood of me finding a L67 or L32 motor around here is near impossible. I have a set of L32 rods I picked up awhile ago, so a set of forged pistons would match that nicely.
OR, I could just order some hypereutectic pistons from ZZP...not sure what the future holds for this car, maybe a turbo. Would Forged Pistons be too much?
The future includes a lot of waiting if you order them from....well you know the deal
If I don't go with the ARP Rod Bolts...are the stock rod bolts reusable? I read somewhere that they are not TTY bolts. Can anyone confirm or deny?
i vote stock l67/l32 bottom end
my piston rings turned to **** on my 150k L36
As from what Ive read and seen around the 3800 forums bearings are likely to fail more often than the components so says PRJ too IIRC becasue the bearings are softer metal and junk by some standards. Tho I have no idea what other options would be available. I havnt seen many trashed components more thrown rod and cam bearings than anything. But what the hell do I know right?
You might want to run double the OE gap.
People chip L67 pistons as well.
Detonation weakens the pistons, they eventually chip.
Top ring gap is way too tight for what we try and do with these motors.
On rod strength:
L26 < L36 < L67 < L32.
Have to agree with rod bearing issues.
It seems series II had **** quality control on the rod mass. Series III had much lower tolerances.
I'd venture to guess this is significant in our motors considering they're externally balanced.
Also: I actually found a thread where someone broke a stock crankshaft.
Into three pieces.
HOWEVER, had it machined so the workmanship is in question there.
Last edited by matt5112; 12-02-2011 at 11:39 PM. Reason: added the word rod.
On the broken CS...I really hope your not talking about Nick Manchen's pile in Chicago...that ****ing car...full of LOL's and it's 10:1 motor.
Can't remember.
Machined crank.
Sounds like bad news.
No one seems to do machine work properly anymore.
I feel I should make a new thread for the engine rebuild since the question I originally asked has been answered.
It would help for future people searching for engine rebuild *shrug*
Not to hijack, but my motor is about to be complimented with an s1x and a gen v. It is a 104k L67 that runs perfect. I should be okay with the proper tune, correct?
all we have to do is edit the tags at the bottom here as thats how things are searched.
or if you want to make a new one thats entirely up to you.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |