Thread: Hey wtf?! No fuel pressure regulator???

I have a '99 GTP. Had it for going on 5 years. I recently had to swap out engines (both L67's) after some apparently bad crank bearings "ate up the lower end, etc." Anyhow... I ended up getting a bunch of extra shizz off the newer engine & I kind of have a bunch of spare parts. I was bored & while in the garage noticed that I didn't pull the injectors out of the newer fuel line to clean & possibly sell or keep as a backup or something. I looked a little closer at the fuel rail that came off an '03 engine. It's got that circular looking thing on the bottom right corner (assuming ur looking at it while in the engine). The fuel rail currently in my car (the one it came with & it's been the same as when I bought it from a GM Dealership in '05) does NOT have that circular business anywhere on it. There's just a barcoded sticker where that circular thing is on the '03 GTP engine fuel rail. Anyone know anything about this? Car's been driving normally since I got. Even took it to the dealership once for a recall & several mechanics have looked at it in the past & no one said anything. Should I leave it as is? Any benefits/ serious harm if I ever decide to swap 'em out? The one off the '03 is in somewhat better condition but not by a significant margin. I sanded the surface rust off the currently installed one. Looks good!


PS... Why the hell can't I upload pics? I went to "manage attachments" underneath where I'm typing all this. Kept shrinking the jpeg smaller & smaller yet it never worked... "upload failed." Wat up?...

use an image code from photobucket or similar FREE photo hosting site.

Thanks Dark Horizon & Swiggles. Whatever guess I'll leave it as is... & I will look into that PhotoBucket business. Actually check out a pic of my engine... Let's see if this shiat works

DSC00370.jpg picture by TheYanz - Photobucket:
Upload failed due to failure writing temporary file.

Yeah whatever I don't give a f*ck anymore. Later guys...

See the thing on the left side of the rail with teh vacuum line going to it. That's your FPR.

PS, your picture worked!

Ahhh... That's right. I recall reading up on or at least finding out at one point in time exactly where the FPR is quite some time ago when I was first learning all the details on the upper engine. Been a while, tho... About the pic... There's no way to actually have it so the pic itself gets inserted into a post as opposed to a link? Hey BillBoost... We briefly chatted a while back. I know u've done some Rocker installs. Had some issues with the Comp Cams "reusable" bolts. 1st Rocker install I did in May went smoothly except for the springs taking some time (my 1st time) plus I had to keep running to places to get tool after tool & ratchet set piece after ratchet set piece (had to get a long 15mm, a hex bit for the bolts, etc, etc ) Umm... Everyone says torque them to 25 ft. lbs. I set the torque wrench I rented to that but on the 1 or 2 I tried doing that on the thing never clicked. It just kept tightening the bolt(s) to the point where it would start to kinda compress the spring to a seemingly kinda wrong or incorrect degree. The idea is to basically tighten the bolts down so they don't have any side to side play but not overly tighten them, right? Think w/ the 1st set of bolts (from the May install, I had to order a new set of 12 from ZZP to fix the clicking/ weird noise issues) to accomplish that 1 ended up getting overdone & it made that weird noise ppl complain about with incorrect rocker installs. Took some trial & error to finally find out exactly which bolt it was but it starts up now with 0 weird noises or clicking or whatever. Am I missing something? I know that wrench is supposed to click or kind of do that little thing to let u know when it reaches wat u set it for but wtf? What do u make of all this? Also should 1 rocker bolt end up naturally be tightened down in a way where it compresses 1 spring noticeably lower than the other 5? I mean do they go in sequence or something so u'll always have 1 like that? Jus wanna make sure I don't end up messing my engine up real bad...

I understand what you are saying. That's what I find scary. You described it in a good way.

At any given time some of the valves on the motor are open and some are closed. This is how our engines take in air/fuel and exhaust it out as well. Which in a moment will seem like a "duh" moment to you. When you took the rockers off, some were compressed and some weren't. Because it's your first time, you likely didn't happen to notice that. Some of the rockers will push down on the springs. Some times it's one, other times it's more of them. This is because our camshafts have lobes. Those lobes push the lifter for that valve up, which pushes the pushrod, which pushes up on the one side of the rocker, it rocks like a seesaw and pushes down on the valve/spring.

I suggest torquing all to 25ft lbs, rotating the engine a few turns and then retorquing them all. Another way to do it, is to ensure the piston is at TDC (no real pressure on rocker to spring) and then torque that rocker, turn for the next cylinder and torque that one. This is the technically best way to do it. The first way I suggested gets it done just as well, but for a first timer, the second way may give you more confidence.

Not my best pic. but see how some of the spring coils look compressed more than others


Here we can see some of the different angles of the rockers


More

Thanks, Snorlax Naw dude I kinda assumed the part about the diff rocker positions due to wat I now know is due to the cam I guess. My biggest concern was the f*$king torque wrench I rented from Pep Boys not doing anything remotely close to clicking or doing that thing for a fraction of a turn as an indicator. Perhaps it's the wrench. I hand tightened them all, then again till just tight with a normal smaller wratchet wrench making sure all the pushrods lined up precisely, then tried getting ver precise with the torque wrench. I've read many forum posts about how to prep & tech tips & stuff. This is actually the 2nd time I've done rockers. Didn't have anymajor issues the 1st time excpet for dropping half a lock deep into an engine crevice which I never found. Don't worry I promise I heard it clank around somewhere way below & way OUTSIDE the crankcase A friend of a friend who does Vette or Chevy or some other LS business engines' cams happened to have a spare set I get back today from a normal days' driving & close to my house I start feeling a misfire. I get the blinking light, I read the code from my dash mounted Scan Gauge & sure enough it's P303. Realizing it's something in the front I check the plug end of the wire, coil end, coil itself, & the injector wiring. Then lastly the plug. Had some crap on the threads but nothing unusual. Then I recall the issues I had just b4 getting the rocker install to finally work & how #4 from the left seemed bolted down too tightly. I take off the oil cap & reach inside & see if I can move the 2 rockers I can touch. Sure enough the one on the left swung to the left easily. I was lie Awww, Sh***t! Lol I drain the oil, pull off a fe things, pop off the crankcase cover & start trying to unscrew #4. The f*ckin' bolt was broken & it broke in a way where it's flush with the top of the bolt hole. Do't be alarmed. I've already drilled straight thru it almost perfectly centered w/ a titanium coated 1/8 bit. The stupid wedge thing did't work like it should've. There's another tool some dude at Menard's was showing me. It's this larger handhld contraption. It's like $10. I'm fairly certain that that will finish the job & extract that junk. Then I can hopefully

give it another quick weekend attempt & have some more funny & interesting car stories & adventures for my GF when she gets back from her family trip waaay out East. I'ma look at ur pics a few times. They look helpful Thanks for the advice again... I'll let u know wat develops. "SNORLAAAAX... HHHrrghhhh..." Hahaha

Hey BillBoost I've done it b4 once but do I have to take out all the spark plugs when turning over the engine by hand? I did it months ago b4 my 1st GTP super high mileage engine went south & it seemed pretty hard to turn it. Then again I was told that the crank bearings ended up failing & breaking & they ate up my lower engine a few months ago by my engine swap. Is it supposed to be REALLY hard to turn over or was that a sign of my soon to come lower engine blowup? Would something like that have been fixable b4 it ended up seizing my engine? Sounds like a lot of labor, no? Prolly better off with a newer lower mileage lower end? If I don't remove the plugs does the compressed air go in or out one of the valves or something or does it not compress & that slow rate of hand turning? I'm getting curious but in a good way, right?

I'm a bit tired.. starting to get wired from the coffee and trying to translate what you wrote. Trust me.. I'm ready to work at hooked on phonics. Also it tastes like I'm one sweetener packet down from the usual...oh yeah..high test coffee.

If you don't pull the springs, you don't have to put air to the cylinders. You should pull all the plugs to make it turn over easier..otherwise you are fighting compresssion when trying to turn it.