Supercharger coupler replacement

**05grndprix** · 08-18-2011

anyone change out the snout to case gasket??? if so anyone know how to find a part numbe rfor advance auto parts??? i just called and the guy knows nothign about cars

**sseilmnop** · 08-18-2011

No gasket, they just use sealant.

**twol8uluz** · 08-18-2011

Hahahahaha....*soup*ercharger

**05grndprix** · 08-19-2011

it was very soupy when i pulled it off lol... if i torqued down the bolts everyone think its going to leak without sealant???? if so i might pull it back off...

**matt5112** · 08-19-2011

Anaerobic sealant.

it'll leak without it.

You want some on both sides of the rotor pack plate.

Not much though, small bead.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ket_makers.htm

Any of those should work.

**fubar569** · 08-21-2011

I actually used ultra black (598B) and it sealed perfectly. It's not a huge deal to remove the snout or pack to redo if an issue arises but i regularly check my fluid and haven't seen any decrease in about a weeks time.

between rotor pack & case and snout and rotor pack.

used factory eaton replacement coupler

used 8oz oil

easy swap.

**matt5112** · 08-21-2011

RTV only cures when exposed to air.

**fubar569** · 08-21-2011

I had black on hand. i used it per recommendation from a set of rebuild instructions i encountered online. If left to cure without the oil in the snout (plug out) for a few hours it will be just fine. Otherwise use the appropriate anaerobic sealant.

as stated my fluid level has stayed put for a week now and there is no residue on the lower manifold/gasket area so i know it sealed up. Others may not be so lucky. Just stating what worked for me.

**05grndprix** · 08-21-2011

i think i sealed it... when i filled it there was a puddle but that could of been from it dripping or something from pouring it... ive been watching the fluid closely... i left it empty for 2 hours and then filled it... if it drops any all re do it... it only took a little bit to tear down and put back together... i will watch it carefully im pciky though and dont like re using fluid so ive bought 4 bottles so far and have 2 spares lol

**GR8racingfool** · 08-22-2011

You can use RTV, I would suggest the Ultra Gray made by Permetex. This is what I only used back in the day, still works great, and it does cure, and it does seal. NEVER had had a issue with any of my M90s out there.

You ONLY want to do ONE SIDE of the rotor pack, the side the snout mates up to. A thin light bead of sealant too...don't over do it.

Its zero tolerance on these parts when they go together. You do want to use a anaerobic sealant though, to correctly do it. Loctite 518 is what I would use. The stuff I use is actually from Detroit Diesel through my brothers shop. Its similar to the 518.

When the snout goes on, its 22 ft. lbs of torque.

GenV's you want to also add sealant to the lower two, center most bolts on the unit. They tend to seep oil out if you don't. This was a correction fix from Magnuson, fixing Eaton's little boo-boo on that.

Eaton now puts sealer on every snout bolt on the later made units.

~F~

**blueguy** · 08-22-2011

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

You can use RTV, I would suggest the Ultra Gray made by Permetex. This is what I only used back in the day, still works great, and it does cure, and it does seal. NEVER had had a issue with any of my M90s out there.

You ONLY want to do ONE SIDE of the rotor pack, the side the snout mates up to. A thin light bead of sealant too...don't over do it.

Its zero tolerance on these parts when they go together. You do want to use a anaerobic sealant though, to correctly do it. Loctite 518 is what I would use
~F~

So, why wouldn't you just do it right the first time? Just because you did it with RTV doesn't mean it's right.

**Zef_66** · 08-22-2011

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

So, why wouldn't you just do it right the first time? Just because you did it with RTV doesn't mean it's right.

Agreed. Just because it worked for ya once does not mean it is the correct way to do it. And should not be suggested to someone on a forum that might not know what to watch for.

**GR8racingfool** · 08-23-2011

The RTV I was using does work, I have used it for years, on countless superchargers. That's why I offered that info.

I have since switched to the Loctite 518 (or comparable) for the units I am rebuilding to this day. Both work, one is just better over all.

I don't offer bad advice, ever.

~F~

**blueguy** · 08-23-2011

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

I don't offer bad advice, ever.

~F~

LMAO, alright Jason.

**GR8racingfool** · 08-25-2011

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

LMAO, alright Jason.

I'm going to take the high road on this one, and not even post what I had typed as a reply to your comment. I know you will reply to this, cause you always feel you have to get the last word in. I'll chat with you in person next time I see you Nick, don't worry.

~F~

**Zef_66** · 08-25-2011

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

I'm going to take the high road on this one, and not even post what I had typed as a reply to your comment. I know you will reply to this, cause you always feel you have to get the last word in. I'll chat with you in person next time I see you Nick, don't worry.

~F~

Last word. I just got it.

Well, until someone else posts.

**klj5022** · 08-25-2011

worrd

**Reptile** · 08-25-2011

You know, it's pretty sad that you've got to keep egging someone on. That's not taking the high road dude, you're basically daring him to reply.

Using RTV is NOT recommended, they did NOT come like that from Eaton. I've never recommended using it to seal the rotor pack, and I've worked on several cars that have a leak, because of the fact they used RTV to seal the snout to the rotors. Be they got the info here, club gp, or wherever, it's false information, and in fact if it doesn't get squeezed out of the joint, it doesn't cure half the time and ends up inside the oil.

Argue all you guys want about what to use, but if you use RTV, then in my opinion it's misinformation and I'm not going along with it.