Thread: Engine seized?

Originally Posted by fst4dr

rare they hardly ever go internal usually just external on these and it would be more prone to go into the oil if it did happen to go internal. also these engines are kinda known for some head gasket failures
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intake gaskets?? my LIM gasket leaked internally and spilled coolant into my motor. just as common unless there's something im missing here?

Originally Posted by seanparker3

ok if there was coolant in the engine wouldnt it be toast anyway.. I thought coolant = death to an engine? Then again i dont know that much about engines? I found a supercharged l67 series 2 for 800. Im just worried about installation costs. I guess this is what i get for buying a 2000 gtp for 2500

and no not always, most engines can recover if the problem is caught early enough. depends on how long you ran it with coolant in it if that's what happened. mine was apparently ran too long with the previous owner and my engine only lasted a month more. sooo go figure.

granted i'm n/a, but got my motor for $200. had 114k. runs like a champ

so yah.. do you know if the LIM gaskets have been done on this car? if not, good chance that's what happen and now you have hydro locked. take out plugs and crank over to verify coolant.

thats what i mean internal and in to the oil but internal and into the cylinder would be a little less common although it could happen. to be safe though if I was that deep in already I would be doing the head gaskets for piece of mind. also if you are not doing your own work you should know that doing head gaskets quotes almost 13 hours so you will be probably close to the same cost as installing another motor by the time the shop sends the heads out to be cut and checked and then the gasket set too!

Originally Posted by brandonl2000

intake gaskets?? my LIM gasket leaked internally and spilled coolant into my motor. just as common unless there's something im missing here?


and no not always, most engines can recover if the problem is caught early enough. depends on how long you ran it with coolant in it if that's what happened. mine was apparently ran too long with the previous owner and my engine only lasted a month more. sooo go figure.

granted i'm n/a, but got my motor for $200. had 114k. runs like a champ

so yah.. do you know if the LIM gaskets have been done on this car? if not, good chance that's what happen and now you have hydro locked. take out plugs and crank over to verify coolant.

if yours was run with coolant in the oil than it went internal to the oil side. like i said it would be much less common for it to have gone to the cylinder and caused a lock condition. the reason for this being a lot less common is for it to go to the cylinder 2 sealing surfaces would have to fail but to go to the oil just one would have to fail and the coolant has a straight shot to the lifter valley

well if it gets in the oil then it doesnt take that much more to spin a bearing. so regardless, coolant in this engine can eat his bearing and bye bye motor.
SO figure out if you have coolant in there.

if you can get hold of a cherry picker swapping a motor isn't all that terrible. i wouldn't wanna do it again but it's do-able.

Originally Posted by fst4dr

if yours was run with coolant in the oil than it went internal to the oil side. like i said it would be much less common for it to have gone to the cylinder and caused a lock condition. the reason for this being a lot less common is for it to go to the cylinder 2 sealing surfaces would have to fail but to go to the oil just one would have to fail and the coolant has a straight shot to the lifter valley

i'm not sure i agree that it's less common.. but mine was leaking from the UIM and it hydrolocked. however, there was coolant in the oil for sure as well. i definitely thought that if it was in the oil then hydrolock is possible as soon as there is enough coolant in the oil, regardless of seals.

leaking uim is a different story completely it the uim springs a leak on its coolant passages than it is a straight shot to the cylinders and yes if it was run for to long like this that it would have made its way down past the rings and in to the crank case. but since the op is supercharged it is a bit of a different game since none of the coolant that makes its way up to the sc or throttle body on these cars is prone to spring leaks.

right that's why i said granted my UIM was leaking lol.

but either way, he needs to verify coolant in the engine and take the proper action. it is possible it's the LIM gasket or head gasket. but i was under the impression head gaskets weren't that common for our cars. maybe someone will chime in and verify.

Originally Posted by seanparker3

Thanks alot I guess its worth it to put a new engine in... Always thought 3800's were good motors... I might have a couple buddies that will do it for cheap or maybe an out of work mechanic on craigslist. but for now im hoping for the headgaskets.

you'd be better off hoping for LIM gaskets they're easy haha.

and yea, get together with some of your buddies and tackle it

after adding many other parts from your engine, sure.

well as a auto tech that works on gm fwd a lot (18-60* v6 lim gaskets, 3-60* v6 head gaskets, 6- 3.8 v6 head gaskets and 4 3.8l v6 lim gasket in the last 4 years) I would say that heads are fairly common on these engine. and yes you can that would be the equivalent of a top swap but you will need a custom tune to make it run right. but it will be the same as just doing heads on your engine you have now if thats what it needs

thats hard for me to say. I know lots of people with little experience think its hard. for me its all just bolts holding stuff on to other stuff and to get to what i want i need to take them off. that being said i am sure if you had the time to have the car down for a few days and work on it if you ran into any problems you would be able to find someone here who could give you a hand with it. the sc engines are actually really easy to work on once the sc is off it is the alt. and the tension bracket then the lower intake. once that is out of the way undo the exhaust manifolds pull the push rods out and pull the heads off. I don't think i am forgetting anything but again to me it is just second nature :s

hahaha no sorry but like i said if you get into it pm me and i could im you and probably help walk you through most things you might get stuck on. as for fragile stuff no this is all pretty robust. but you will have to take out the fuel rail but that is super easy as well that would be a great time to re-oring the injectors to stop any possible fire issues. and when you are going back together just make sure you get a new coolant elbow for the tension to lim and make sure you dig the broken pieces out as it is almost a for sure thing that the old one will disintegrate and leave some pieces in both side it comes out of

yeah just make sure you pull the plugs and check for coolant in the cylinders and if there is that just know that if it was happening for an extended period of time and there was coolant getting in to the oil past the rings or somewhere else than there is a possiblity of the bottom end being toast. but if it was running fine before than there is a good chance that it should be ok. the reason i say this is that typically the engine will run rough and have a miss if it burning coolant so you probably would have noticed that before this occured. but like i said pull those plugs and belt and try spinning it over to try to nail this down for sure.

off to bed now but will check in to see where this goes and if i can offer my advice. that is if it is welcome!