hey guys I'm having trouble removing the crank bolt from the hub and I don't want to damage anything? How did you guys do this? Thanks.
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10-29-2010
hey guys I'm having trouble removing the crank bolt from the hub and I don't want to damage anything? How did you guys do this? Thanks.
10-29-2010
I put an extension in one of the flywheel holes to keep it from moving while I used a breaker bar on crank bolt.
10-29-2010
vice grips on the flex plate and an impact worth its weight in steel.
10-29-2010
Well I can't find anything to latch on to and I don't see anything behind this hub. All I'm trying to do is replace the CPS and from what I read I have to take this god damn crank bolt off then I can use the puller to take of the pulley/hub
But the problem is that I don't see a flexplate all that's behind it is NOTHING. I can't wedge anything around it, I've tried hot wrenching it and it won't budge.
I'm just lost at this point, I'm starting this huge hub in the face and see no flex plate behind it or flywheel for that matter. Looks like those are on the otherside. Right behind this hub is the oil pan.
10-29-2010
the flex plate is between the motor and transmission. there are a couple inspection covers you have to take off.
10-29-2010
So it sounds like the engine is still in the car. Air would probably be the safest and best bet.
10-29-2010
A breaker bar as worked every time for me...
Its more difficult to torque it back to spec than it is to get it off.
10-29-2010
starter trick/kick
10-29-2010
You need to keep the flex plate from moving, theres a little plastic cover over it (like bio said between the trans. and motor) I've always done it with a pair of vicegrips, works great.
Also, you're gonna need quite a bit of leverage if you're doing it by hand. When I did mine i used a 1/2 breaker bar that's 3ft long, with a 2ft extension on that, and it was still a *****.
10-29-2010
10-30-2010
Alright thanks guys, I'm going to try it that way tomorrow. I made an appointment for the car to go in on Monday, but it doesn't hurt to give it one last shot before then. I'd love to save the money by doing it myself as well.
Thanks again.
11-01-2010
The crank bolt uses a 24mm head. Use an impact. Good luck getting a puller in there, its a b*&ch.
11-01-2010
crank bolt is standard.
its 15/16's.
Puller fits fine.
11-08-2010
Put a box wrench on the nut and rest the open end of the wrench forward of the bolt on the cradle. Get in the car and blip the starter but don't start the engine. The torque of the starter will break that bolt free like it's not even there.
11-08-2010
HEAT IT! I can't believe nobody has suggested this yet. The red s&*t on the inside of the crank bolt is probably holding it on. Heat it up and use either a braker bar or even better an impact. I had to heat then try it with the impact then heat then impact but it came off eventually. If you don't have an impact its going to be that much harder but use heat either way.
11-08-2010
Heat will melt the rubber in the balancer.Originally Posted by Pure2sin
11-08-2010
What rubber? I guess when I did my top swap I was just replacing my harmonic balancer with another one I didn't heat, but where is there rubber on the balancer? Only thing I would be worried about is possibly melting the crank seal maybe but hmm I guess I am confused about melting the balancer? All the guys I have talked to and my myself used heat to get it off. I am not talking about getting it RED hot but just enough to loosen the red stuff on the flange of the crank bolt.
11-08-2010
yes, there is rubber in the balancer.
11-08-2010
So don't use heat on harmonic balancers?
11-08-2010
i wouldnt. breaker bar or an impact.
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