Thread: Dyno Science: "CAI" Box vs Open Cone Intake

Originally Posted by TEK310

i dont know what you meant by, the MAF is heat dependent? it does not read temp. ours happens to be a hot wire maf, it reads a +or- of voltage at the heated coils, which is changed as air flows by it, cooling the coils.

forgive me if thats what you meant

just finished tuning a 2010 camaro at school on the dyno with hp tuners, believe it or not you have to recalibrate your maf for intake changes.

we put on a giant open cone intake and it leaned out from 12.2 to 13.3. gained no power, just 1tq. now we recalibrated the maf to read the air changes and we gained 10whp

it all comes down to tuning. straight up cooler air makes more power, its a chemical fact. you stick on a intake that takes in ambient air over the 150+* air under the hood, your pcm will be able to allow more timing advance which equals free power.

thats all there is to this thread. colder air is better, provided you have the required CFM for your application and your MAF is tuned properly.

if you want a good comparison. use the same filter and tube length and diameter, one with a box and one without. do not change CFM(filter type or pipe length or diameter)

The MAF calibration is affected by drastic changes in ambient air temperature...like 80F from fender well vs. 150F from under the hood. Along as you're tuned for it...

Originally Posted by matt5112

So the MAF calibration needs to be changed in the winter versus the summer?

Where are the coefficients in the PCM to correct for changing IAT in terms of MAF calibration?

Remember we're splitting hairs here.

What would you do if you're doing some serious drag racing? Would you run the same MAF calibration at 40F as 110F ambient temperatures?

If you can convince me that a hot wire MAF can account for it then I'll leave it be.