new pistons: going down the checklist

**Sandman** · 03-13-2010

Well since I probably have a chipped piston I'm going to replace all of them. Being as I can't afford a whole motor from Morad I'm going to go the route of new pistons/rods. Would ot be worth it if I ncan get ahold of L32 pistons/rods? Also my idea is not pulling the crank, just the pistons, or should I go ahead and replace the main bearings to?

Right now my list of parts is pistons/rods, rod bearings, timing chain/dampner, coupler, oil pump?, and gasket set. Anything I should replace while I'm in there that will be worth it? I don't have a lot of money so I'm trying to make this rebuild as cheap as possible but don't want to cheap out to much. I have a friend who has a shop and experience rebuilding motors who will be helping me.

**TheOtherNick** · 03-13-2010

There is a short block on here for $300, you will be over that in parts.

**minichopper6hp** · 03-13-2010

The rods maybe. Pistons are the same AFAIK.

**Thinkmoto** · 03-13-2010

Get the short block in the classifieds. Otherwise if you can't find L32 pistons/rods L67's will work. I'm currently rebuilding a 04 GTP motor and had to settle on used L67 Pistons/rods from Morad. You'll need a complete gasket kit for the motor,rod bolts,rod and main bearings at a bare minimum. If you have the bottom end apart it would be foolish to not do all the bearings.

**QwikGT** · 03-13-2010

you are aware that you need to bring this to the machine shop right?

**matt5112** · 03-13-2010

yeah if you're not replacing the short block with another stock one... might as well do a build from the ground up.

**TorqueAutoMotiv** · 03-13-2010

get a short block You will need to have the block machined and all the other parts you will be over 600 easy my block new pistons and all that cost me 1200

**matt5112** · 03-13-2010

Originally Posted by TorqueAutoMotiv

get a short block You will need to have the block machined and all the other parts you will be over 600 easy my block new pistons and all that cost me 1200

8.5 or 9.4?

**Sandman** · 03-13-2010

Well damn, I was hoping to avoid a shop cause I never have that money, it'll take me a while to get the money just to do my original plan. The yards around here almost never have L67's, kinda wish I could go with an L26 with a stock tune and a bigger pulley but I know that's not a bad idea.

Right now I'm just trying to figure out the best way for me to go with this situation. I want to do it right with what I can afford. I have heard of guys just dropping the pistons and rods but leaving the crank in the motor.

**TorqueAutoMotiv** · 03-13-2010

Get a na block you dont need a l67 block

**TorqueAutoMotiv** · 03-13-2010

i went 8.5
didnt know if it would effect the ca smog bs

**matt5112** · 03-13-2010

true. CA smog is quite crazy...

**blueguy** · 03-13-2010

If it makes you feel any better I have an entire set of pistons/rods from a L67 out of a babied '02 GTP. They look basically brand new and have NO carbon at all on them. IIRC, all you would need then is a crank and bearings to technically rebuild it. PM me if your interested.

**Sandman** · 03-13-2010

Originally Posted by TorqueAutoMotiv

Get a na block you dont need a l67 block

I would if I had a tuner

**Sandman** · 03-13-2010

Looks like I might be lucky, the local junkyard has a L67 in a 97 Park Ave. I'll grab the short block and throw new gaskets, chain, oil/water pump on it, with new springs for my heads. Throw my top end and accessories on it since this thing looks a little rough. All the aluminum is pretty corroded on the top end.

**Sandman** · 03-17-2010

Would this be advisable for a setup?:

L26 top swap
ported blower, 3" DP, plog, K&N cone, 180 thermo, get a DHP PCM, run like a 4" pulley
Was thinking about gasket matching the heads and intake while I have it all apart to.

Really the only way to know is to scan but locally there are more L32s in good shape than the one L67 I found.

**Thinkmoto** · 03-17-2010

Email Morad,I got a set of used L67 pistons and rods for $100. The pistons where coated on the tops and skirts so I don't know if they sent me L32 pistons/rods or not...but anyways then you could just rebuild the bottom end. or go the short block route if you find a good one.

**matt5112** · 03-17-2010

in 2003-2005 there were a lot of hybrids

**minichopper6hp** · 03-17-2010

Originally Posted by Sandman

Would this be advisable for a setup?:

L26 top swap
ported blower, 3" DP, plog, K&N cone, 180 thermo, get a DHP PCM, run like a 4" pulley
Was thinking about gasket matching the heads and intake while I have it all apart to.

Really the only way to know is to scan but locally there are more L32s in good shape than the one L67 I found.

You are being paranoid. I have an l36 with with mods in my sig, run a 3.4 no knock on stock tune. You will be fine. Especially if you port the heads. I would not advise a used l67 if you are not getting new pistons and such. They all are toast, people abuse them. Grab a good looking 100k l36 and put new seals and bearings in and be good to go. All 2 blocks ive gotten for l36's were in PERFECT shape with perfect specs. Just around 100k is when its a good idea to replace the bearings for long life.

I dont run water meth need to take that out of my sig lol

**Sandman** · 03-17-2010

I'd rather get it right the first time ya know. It won't be a full port job, just to smooth thing out a little maybe.

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