Removing alternator housing

**David99GTP** · 02-03-2008

Can anyone help me? I have plans to chrome my alternator housing. I have hit a deadend and have stopped so I dont ruin anything. I cant seem to get the rest of the parts off in order to separate the two halves. I posted pictures of my progress. I am currently stuck at trying to remove the circuit components. There are 3 wires soldered into the circuitry and they connect to the wire undle/wraping inside the hiousing. Do I need to break the solder connection and resolder after I re-assemble?

On the same note after that is answered what is my next hurdle?

**SyntheticShield** · 02-03-2008

I moved this over to the L67 engine section. The HowTo section is for write ups already done. I left a redirect for you so you can find it. It will probably get more assistance here as well.

**David99GTP** · 02-03-2008

Thanks!

**SyntheticShield** · 02-03-2008

No problem. I will be watching this though cause I am very curious myself and would like to take mine apart and either polish it or paint it.

**chitownchevy** · 02-03-2008

Wow, bring back my question from a couple weeks ago. I still havn't figured this out, but I did give up on it for now because of the crazy cold weather.
If you get this done try and do a detailed writeup with lots of pics.

**SyntheticShield** · 02-03-2008

I agree, we need a write up if you figure anything out.

**chitownchevy** · 02-03-2008

And if he doesnt I have a spare alternator I will shred to figure this out.

**SyntheticShield** · 02-03-2008

See, this is community involvement and participation. Hats off to you guys for being willing to do so much.

**Reptile** · 02-03-2008

Looks like you're gonna need a good soldering gun.

**SyntheticShield** · 02-04-2008

At least one that gets pretty darn warm. I highly doubt the standard pencil soldering iron would do the trick.

**Toasty** · 02-04-2008

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

At least one that gets pretty darn warm. I highly doubt the standard pencil soldering iron would do the trick.

perhaps the flame thrower that URLOOSN was referencing in another thread?

**SyntheticShield** · 02-04-2008

Thats always an option. I know in my electronics career I often pondered what it would be like to solder with a flame thrower, LOL.

**Toasty** · 02-04-2008

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Thats always an option. I know in my electronics career I often pondered what it would be like to solder with a flame thrower, LOL.

you've never soldered with one of them mini torches?

or a butane powered soldering pen?

**SyntheticShield** · 02-04-2008

Christ no. Everytime I considered it I just had visions of PCB igniting in my face or letting the smoke out of components.

**Toasty** · 02-04-2008

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Christ no. Everytime I considered it I just had visions of PCB igniting in my face or letting the smoke out of components.

heh, yeah i dont know that i'd want my fingers that intimate with flame either.... but the butate powered soldering pen isnt bad, just takes a bit longer to heat up.

**SyntheticShield** · 02-04-2008

I think I'll stick with a nice Weller unit for right now, LOL.

**nemesis** · 02-04-2008

i thought about taking mine apart too and paint it, but if it's gonna take alot of work i think i'll leave it alone for now.

**Toasty** · 02-04-2008

one woud think that if just polishing the case were the goal, a decent job could be done on it without disassembly.

**turbocharged406sbc** · 02-04-2008

Originally Posted by Toasty

one woud think that if just polishing the case were the goal, a decent job could be done on it without disassembly.

works great

take the pulley off, and the case screws and you can remove just the front of the case
to remove the rotor you need to retract the brushes and hold them back with a paperclip in the regulator housing before pulling it out of the back housing
to remove the stator windings you have to desolder the stator to voltage regulator assembly.

the 140amp alternators are much easier to disassemble