Thread: Tuning for 80's and 100% ethanol

I installed a set of 80 lb injectors and filled my tank with E100. I was confident in my tuner until he said my IFR should be right, then another tuner said to use a different IFR and it worked. I thought I had a vacuum leak because my fuel trims were 16.4. if I did have a vacuum leak, changing the IFR would have no affect, right?

that's with the engine not running, right?

is there anything else I need to change other than injector flow rate for the 80 lb injectors?

it was the tune. and i forgot to plug the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. fuel trims are pretty close to 0, which surprises me because I haven't made any maf adjustments.

I built a stethoscope for the engine and had a friend ride shotgun with the computer in his lap with the ear muffs on to listen to the engine and he said he could hear detonation, only on one pull, the next pull was clean and he didn't hear anything

on a side note, i think i'm spraying too much water. I will have to swap nozzles for the medium or turn the water spray off. car felt like a turd at full throttle.

you say 500 cc's is large? i'm on the 1000 cc nozzle. one guy I was talking to yesterday said to try the 500 cc nozzle. the good thing about spraying only water is that you don't have to tune for it.

Detonation det cans | How to knock Muffs

that article was really interesting. makes me wonder how much power I would be making with a dual nozzle and 50/50 water/methanol. since i'm spraying water only I think I need to decrease the nozzle size.

Originally Posted by bandook

Oh, well it would help if I knew what I was talking about, lol. Sorry I just assumed you were using meth mix. I had just installed the 500 from the 250 right before my brake line blew.

just jump to the large 1000 cc nozzle since you are spraying 50/50.

I wouldn't jump to the 1000cc nozzle if you are going to spray water only. spraying water is supposed to intercool the blower, but also cool the combustion chamber. I do use a progressive controller. its the aem kit.

mine is running rich right now but I think it's cause I need to adjust the maf.

since you are on E85 you already have some charge air cooling, so I wonder if you would need to use the small nozzle. but cooling the blower is a good thing.

Everyone needs to remember if your tuning gasoline you really need to be able to watch wot afr, tuning rich then pulling fuel back is much safer. I honestly havent seen an engine knock overly rich and I've Dyno tuned and strip tunes many over the years.
Under boost most engines make best power in the 10.5-11.5 afr BUT I've had several engines with high 12 to low 13 afr make near perfect pulls.
The water/meth can help an engine with preignition issues while making more power.
Engines respond better when air is cool and damp.
Thus the reason for intercoolers.
We had one of the 775bbc on Dyno and it was former pro mod engine, it was dual carb with massively ported big chief heads and 15.7-1 compression, but was spinning only 200-210psi on dynamic compression test due to camshaft overlap.
BUT above 4800 it had issues, we traced it to the engine detonating over gas quality. We installed a Snow water meth unit and tada the engine woke up and ran well even on down to using 89 octane. We tried E85 carbs but E85 in our area is so weak since they dropped the spec on E85 from E70 to E51.
The inconsistent nature of E85 is so bad it's limited value right now.
But on the Dyno I chose a conservative timing curve, then bring in the fuel till it tops out on power, then add a bit more timing then fuel and so on. We then keep working fuel and timing curve till we get best power. I also like to check about pulling timing for track tuning. If engine still makes power ok but bit less torque curve for bad tracks and such.
I had one customer that ran his car tuned back a bit, and kept the higher power setting for last ditch effort in face offs.

Originally Posted by MonzaRacer

Everyone needs to remember if your tuning gasoline you really need to be able to watch wot afr, tuning rich then pulling fuel back is much safer. I honestly havent seen an engine knock overly rich and I've Dyno tuned and strip tunes many over the years.
Under boost most engines make best power in the 10.5-11.5 afr BUT I've had several engines with high 12 to low 13 afr make near perfect pulls.
The water/meth can help an engine with preignition issues while making more power.
Engines respond better when air is cool and damp.
Thus the reason for intercoolers.
We had one of the 775bbc on Dyno and it was former pro mod engine, it was dual carb with massively ported big chief heads and 15.7-1 compression, but was spinning only 200-210psi on dynamic compression test due to camshaft overlap.
BUT above 4800 it had issues, we traced it to the engine detonating over gas quality. We installed a Snow water meth unit and tada the engine woke up and ran well even on down to using 89 octane. We tried E85 carbs but E85 in our area is so weak since they dropped the spec on E85 from E70 to E51.
The inconsistent nature of E85 is so bad it's limited value right now.
But on the Dyno I chose a conservative timing curve, then bring in the fuel till it tops out on power, then add a bit more timing then fuel and so on. We then keep working fuel and timing curve till we get best power. I also like to check about pulling timing for track tuning. If engine still makes power ok but bit less torque curve for bad tracks and such.
I had one customer that ran his car tuned back a bit, and kept the higher power setting for last ditch effort in face offs.

but have you run 100% ethanol?