Thread: Coolant Issues

Originally Posted by TonyO

wow seems like a lot of work.

not that bad really.

if you know your way around a engine and feel good about taking stuff apart, its a 3 hr job first time out. thats taking your time.

Originally Posted by dsmuts

The other bigger black one is for the NA map sensor and so is the little blue one.

Originally Posted by The Guz

The little blue seal is for the MAP sensor.

You don't say?

I haven't had time to get back to the car since I cleaned up the gasket surfaces and torqued down the LIM, hopefully I'll get back to it tonight. I was reading into ways to clean the coolant system, like here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/dexco...edy-62341.html It seems some people in this thread think that putting DexCool back in is a good move. Why not switch to green, with all the problems DexCool causes? Also, his procedure makes it seem like he's draining/refilling with a hot engine. Seems sketchy, couldn't that potentially cause warpage/cracking issues?

I'd say 3 hours is right if I hadn't been trying to pull the LIM off with the engine mount in

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

flushing coolant is easy. take the t stat out, put the housing back on, leave the hose on the t stat housing, now take it off the upper rad, push it down to the ground.

open the rad, put a hose in the rad, turn it on, then fire up the engine, all the coolant will pump out the upper hose to a bucket or the ground, as your filling the rad with fresh water, run it like this for a few minutes, usually till clear water comes out. then take the hose out, turn it off, then run the car till no more coolant comes out the upper hose, then turn the car off.

put a new t stat back in hook up the hose to the rad, then dump 1 gallon of straight antifreeze in the rad, not the 50/50 crap. start the car, fill the rad with the hose.

let the car idle, rad cap open till the fans come on, then open the bleeder screw on the t stat housing till a stream of coolant comes out. then shut it. top off the rad if need be, cap it, your done.

waiting for the fans to come on lets you know the engine is hot enough for the t stat to open, some times you will see the rad level drop as well. that would be the time to bleed the air as well. because it opened and took coolant from the rad to fill the engine with more coolant.

this post i made on page one, is the best way to flush your coolant, id use only like prestone flush cleaner ( or similar) , no way id put cascade in my engine or any of that other crap.

you can flush it, then full it with water, put the flush stuff in, drive it around, then re flush the engine. add coolant then.

if you drive the car with just water, and the rad cap on, yes you'll want it to cool down some before popping the cap, or you can get burnt up pretty good. 200 deg water and steam hurts bad.

hell even with antifreeze in the car, let it cool before popping the cap, same thing, it can erupt on you.

the rule is: never add cold water to a hot engine when its off. if you must add when its hot, make sure its running. or able to run.

during the flush it will never over heat, because you have a hose full of cold water being fed to the engine, and your only idling the car.

i dont have that on my car. hopefully someone will know.

Push it down as you push the clip on

what size head is that?

hope you didnt forget 2 lim bolts or something.

you bolt all the sensors back in? maybe you mixed on of them up, or a bracket for a sensor.

Map sensor bracket?