Thread: Intake Manifold Gasket Parts List

I watched the video a few times, and saw a few parts lists, the one posted for a 98 was a GTP, so not sure what's different between the SC and NA versions, aside from the SC gasket. If I read everything correctly, here's what I got from Rock Auto:

1998 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 3.8L V6 OHV
LISLE 37000 Fuel Line Disconnect Tool $ 5.86
ACDELCO 213815 (213-815) Temperature Sender / Sensor $ 14.98
BOSCH 97152 Water Pump $ 27.79 (includes gasket)
DORMAN 615207 (615-207) Intake Manifold Gasket $ 31.79 (kit includes UIM & TB gaskets, t-stat and gasket, and some other gaskets)
DORMAN 47065hp (47065HP) Heater Hose Fitting $ 7.16 (elbows)
FEL-PRO ES70599 Fuel Injector O-Ring $ 2.00 (this is a 4-pack, says I need 3 so I have a spare)
FEL-PRO MS98014T Intake Manifold Gasket $ 49.79 (LIM gasket)
FEL-PRO VS50080R Valve Cover Gasket $ 9.79 (set includes both)
STANT 10331 Radiator Cap $ 3.60
Shipping Ground, Priority Mail $ 14.80
Order Total $ 167.56

I need the basic AutoZone stuff like coolant, RTV, Brakleen, etc. Any particular kind of RTV to use on the LIM gasket corners? Did I miss anything?

You don't need to disconnect the fuel rail you can just move it to the side.

Your temp sender is probably fine but if you want to change it make which one you have and which one you are ordering there is a 2 wire and 3 wire.

You could probably just reuse your uim gasket if you wish.

LIM gasket kit comes with fuel inj o rings and the rtv you need for the corners.

I use red rtv on the corners but the felpro kit comes with black, the color doesn't matter much though as long as its high temp.

If your lim gasket's rubber is flattened then your going need a new one. If you've never replaced then its most likely flat. You could use rtv on all the rubber on it on both sides but your better off just getting a new one.

OK thanks guys. The part calls for a 3-wire on the temp sensor, so hopefully that's what I have in there. Trying to get the "while I'm in there" parts without going nuts $$ wise. Sounds like I have some extra stuff, but I hate having to pend a job for a week waiting on parts, I like to have everything I need before I start. Doesn't always work out like that, but that's the plan anyway. I thought from the video you had to release pressure and disconnect the fuel rail, didn't realize I could just move it out of the way. the tool was pretty inexpensive so thought it was good to have in the arsenal. car has 153K and no gaskets done yet, so expecting the worst. Thanks for the info and support, I plan to get into this in a few weeks when I have some time, so will post back with results. You guys rock!

Hey one last question....where can I find the torque specs for the bolts on UIM, LIM< valve cover etc.

I'd personally skip the water pump and temp sender. However like you said..while you are there and you'd like to do it.

On the valve covers, you don't have the most important part. The grommets. On the VC's the bolts have sleeves that stop them, the grommets provide the pressure to make the seal with the gasket and head. You want grommets.

I'd suggest a big storage type plastic bin from Walmart/Target. I think the ones I have are around 18 inches by 30 inches. Some purple power/simple green and you have a nice wash basin for the LIM and valve covers. Little scrub brush or old tooth brushes and you'll be reinstalling nice clean parts.

The RTV in the kit will be good enough.
On the fuel injector o-rings. Technically you need 12 rings. Six injectors, times top and bottom rings equals 12. They meant you'd need 3 packs of 4 rings to get to 12.
A can of TB cleaner and a can of maf cleaner. While it's off... do it.
Fuel lines: If the car is pre 04 (your post shows 98) the fuel lines are held on by plastic clips, you can release with your hands. No tool needed.
A magnet (on a stick) always helps when doing the job.
Fuel rail and TB nuts are 10mm
VC and LIM bolts are 3/8" (10mm will round them) There are 12 LIM bolts. 2 are down in the manifold inside the front driver and back passenger area. Feel areound in that puddle of oil.
Alt/brackets etc are 13mm/15mm (Theres one bolt out of sight)
WP pulley 8mm, bolts 4 10mm and 4 13mm. Make sure you find the 4th 10mm under the nose of the pump.

Ok, now on to the part you want to know before doing this job. The most common reason for a bad motor in a naturally aspriated 3800 is an upper intake manifold failure. Right.. the manifold itself. Please read the below to familiarize yourself with what to look for while yours is off.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/97-03...ure-60667.html

Then.. my suggestion is keep it from ever possibly happening to you. By plugging the ports for the coolant to the TB and opening up the turn around under the TB to ensure you have proper front/back coolant flow between the heads. Sections labeled Coolant passage blocking and increasing coolant flow.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-mod-lim-46931.html

Lube the o-rings with a little oil or vasoline.
VC bolts 89 inch pounds
UIM bolts 87 inch pounds (or slightly less if the edges of the tabs turn white and are about to break off)
LIM bolts 15 foot pounds (with the metal gasket..I suggest 15)
TB, little past snug

Thanks to Billboost and everybody for the info. At 153k miles, the intake has never been opened. So it sounds like I should just go ahead and replce the UIM while I am doing the job. That's my rationale on the water pump, it has never been changed so even if its not leaking now it will be soon. I'll get that Dorman kit with the new UIM and send back the gasket only kit . Also thanks for the heads up on the injector o rings I'll pick up another 2 packs, and got the valve cover grommet set as well.

Is it the gasket that goes on the side of the lim for the coolant passage?