Thread: Coolant Elbows

Well, as always, I used the Search button before making a new thread. Problem is, all the threads I read about Coolant Elbows are for the most part, conflicting.

So, here it is...the question..

Do you have to remove the Lower Intake in order to replace the coolant elbows?
Also, a couple threads I read said the elbows can be found in the "Help Section" We have that section in the Canadian Tire stores here up in Canada, but does anyone know the actual part numbers to look for IN the help section? There's a few PVC elbows in that section.

The upper elbow on the 97 Grandprix I just bought it leaking and needs replaced. From what I read disconnect the battery, remove alternator, couple bolts that hold that bracket on...remove the bracket..remove the broken pieces..clean up with emery, lube o-rings, reassemble? Im going to do the valve cover gaskets at the same time.


Thanks for looking,

Jay

Awesome. Thanks.

So...replaced the Coolant ELBOW tonight....

Thats right, Elbow...as in singular... The pipe that goes into the water pump (so the lower one) was a cast pipe to the tensioner casting..there was only 1 plastic elbow, and it was broken on both ends.

Anyone else only have 1 elbow?

I took the o-ring off the coolant elbow and installed it on the cast in pipe.



Jay

i thought it was only the 97 that had the cast elbow with the assembly.

95-99 Bonneville (with S2 motor)
95-99 PA (with S2 motor)
95-99 Riv (with S2 motor)
95-99 LeSlopper (with S2 motor)
97-98 GP/Regal
98 Trigue/Monte (maybe Lumina) (with L36)

That's most of them. Mighta left out one

Well, its fixed...the sone elbow was deff leaking. Not any more. Bleeding the cooling system is a PITA on these cars...I thought Toyota Camrys with the old 2.2L 4 lunger was bad... The cooling system still has air in it, heater core tells me so...gurgle gurgle. I have fire practice tonight, but im gonna try gacking up the drivers side of the car and open the bleeded once more before I leave work.

Also, the rad must be right stuffed full of Dexcool Soup at the bottom by the drain...it drains very slowly, and sometimes stops....give the drain cock a wiggle and it will flow again. Took me a while to figure out its a quarter twist and pull (or in my case pry, grunt and coax) out to the open position. Is there any way to completely remove the drain cock from the radiator so I can power flush the rad with a garden hose? Im going to have to do another flush here shortly anyways, because I know for a fact I did not get all the dexcool out. The previous owner worked as a parts jockey at a GM Dealer, so it still had DC in it. He had the dealership do all the maintenance.


Jay

You can mess with the little bleed valve all day it won't get the air out of the heater core. When the car is cooled jack the front up and let it run with the radiator cap off (old school way). Keep your coolant handy and fill it as it lowers it will need filled when your thermo opens up. After you stop seeing the air bubbles put your cap back on and it should be better. Then bleed off the nipple to get any extra air out.

Thats the way I did it last night. Had the front end jacked way up to get it higher than the heater core...same thing we did with the 2.2 Camry's when I worked at Toyota.
I'll have to do it again I guess.

Jay