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SE Level Member
09-04-2018
I have a 2007 Grand Prix. The car has 200k and has not had the ignition recall done. Last week the car wouldn't crank over I get in the car and it just flat out dies the lights came on a couple times and that was it then they don't come on at all. So I jumped it thinking I left something on. The end of week it doesn't jump at a for me. I have it towed to the mechanic. He checks everything it all has power. He couldn't find the drain. If the negative cable is unhooked it will start up again. He thinks it could be the recall that needs to be done. I've been googling myself and I'm just as puzzled. It died again this morning and is sitting on the battery charger. Any ideas on what it could be? Besides changing out relays I have no clue what could be going wrong?
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GTX Level Member
09-04-2018
Ignition recall likely has nothing to do with it. All they do for that I put a plastic insert inside the ignition key, so that other keys on your ring won't exert leverage and shut your car off while driving. Start checking battery connections & grounds.
For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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SE Level Member
09-04-2018
Thanks. And that's what I thought after reading through the forums. The car when driving it shows about 13.70 on the cluster in the car. While driving it varies goes up and down. I'm currently afraid to really go anywhere and shut the car off for a fear if it not starting. Also sometimes the gauge will light up with the turn signal,fog light and horn blaring with the wipers going any idea what that could be? I was looking at changing my terminal's since when I was trying to get it started if I wiggles the terminals it would start. All I can find are those terminals that you have to like fit the copper wire into. Any idea on what you would recommend?
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GTX Level Member
09-04-2018
Short of replacing pos. & neg. leads, any parts store should have universal replacement ends. Cut off old end, strip back to CLEAN wire, insert into new end, tighten clamp, attach to batt. Less than ideal, but cheap to rule out.
For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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GTP Level Member
09-04-2018
Did you hit it with your purse?
03 GS - SSAC, AEM wb, PT,SR rockers, Gen 3, 3.4, dynotech trans w/ 3.29's.
87 Fiero GT. L67 Swap. XP, ported heads/sc. N* TB, FSIC, 2.8, 12.018 @ 113 1.71 60'.
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SE Level Member
09-05-2018
Originally Posted by
cheatah faheatah
Short of replacing pos. & neg. leads, any parts store should have universal replacement ends. Cut off old end, strip back to CLEAN wire, insert into new end, tighten clamp, attach to batt. Less than ideal, but cheap to rule out.
Thank you. I will look into doing that. After I tightened the connections yesterday I'm currently letting it sit with the battery connected and seeing if it dies. I appreciate your help.
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SE Level Member
09-06-2018
After talking with my mechanic this morning to rule out and make sure I had everything correct they pulled every fuse under the hood and inside the door. When they hooked it up with a test light it lot up. Also my positive cable was extremely warm. He suggested I take the fuse box under the hood and look for any corrosion or broken wires. From reading other posts these cars have eletrical problems. I guess I don't understand how it suddenly has a parasitic draw out of no where.
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09-06-2018
these fuse boxes do catch fire. wires rot out touch then cause a draw, then get hot and burn. and burn your car up. so id take the box off the strut tower and open it up and start to smell it for cooked wires and look for anything thats dark and burnt looking.
98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails
L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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SE Level Member
10-07-2018
Okay so I had a friend check it out with a real multi meter nothing came back with a draw. We cleaned up the terminals no issues. Then out of no where issues again. Figured it was the battery. Since who knows how old it really is there was no date code other than at least two years old from a junkyard stamp. So I had another mechanic look at it someone I actually trust. We changed the battery out with a new one from Interstate. Great no problems till yesterday when the cigarette lighter was left plugged in for ten minutes maybe. I've now texted my mechanic he thinks maybe alternator. Its been load tested at advanced auto everything shows normal. Yet it died last night the battery after cigarette lighter was plugged in. Thoughts?
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10-08-2018
Did you remove the fuse box from the strut tower and remove the back to remove the 3-4 connectors on the back of the box and check those connections/wires?
I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.
2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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SE Level Member
10-10-2018
Yes I have. The battery and alternator move around on the dash to 12.6 sometimes. Then other days it will say 13.85 it varies. Its like the alternator charger when it wants to. So I've ordered a new one. And changes the battery because I had no clue how old it was as it was an Engergizer. No date code.
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GTP Level Member
10-10-2018
These alternators vary the charging rate from 12.8 to 14.1 volts or so. So I’m not sure that is the issue. Could be another bad new battery. It happens.
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SE Level Member
10-11-2018
Replaced the alternator it goes out of wack. Mechanic tries different things no help. Charging system failure light continues to come on. I've read more posts than I'd like to see that had a charging system light come on.
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