Thread: Lock pulley top remove 24mm bolt?

Guys I'm stuck trying to get bolt off 2007 gp harmonic balancer..Included I have pics of where I am.My air compressor died and I am heading in to replace Timing cover gasket.Thanks
Randy
http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/Randy_Pappas/library/

You can use like a large pair of vise grips to hold/wedge the flex plate in place to stop the crank from moving, then use the breaker bar from up top and use like a piece of pipe or jack handle to extend it to give you extra leverage to remove the bolt.

or use the starter motor, set the breaker bar on a jack stand or a jack and crank the engine over.

The engine is tore down.I would have to go back and reinstall alt-pp-idler water pump bolts and belt to do that?

The crank always spins regardless, it doesn't need any belts to do the starter trick.

The flex plate is what bolts the torque converter to the engines. There is a little black cover between the motor and transmission on the bottom that will give you access to the flex plate.


Just pull the fuel pump fuse/relay if you do the starter bump trick so the engine doesn't run.

using the starter is going to be the easy way to go about this. no need for all that stuff to be hooked up. even if it did start just turn it off fast, nothings gonna get messed up cause it ran a few seconds.

you got the right size bolts for the puller to the balancer i hope. the right size dont come with a puller kit.

Just now realized that. bought oemtools27187 because I got it overnight.What size am I looking for?Isn't the pressure point suppose to go thru the hole to the threaded hole.When setting the puller up

Update

Got it pulled, More in morning.2 degrees in Iowa and I need some heat.
Thanks

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...a-crank-sensor bolts are listed here. as well as the crank sensor tq.

the bolts thread into the balancer you'll need washer to keep the heads from pulling through.

and you want a puller like this. if it has that foot on the end pop it off, you want the threaded rod to go in past the threads in the crank. id put some anti seize on the threaded rod too.

when your ready to install the new gasket, smear rtv 2 inches up the block, and on the gasket 2 inches up when its put on and, around the oil pan gasket, sealing those two corners up nice.

some of the threaded holes go through the block into the coolant. best to use some thread sealant on all them bolts, the 4 long w/p bolts for sure need this and a few others. or the threads can leak later.

this lic looks like a casting mark.