Thread: Puking coolant between the oil pan and transmission pan?

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...-mount-etc-etc some where in this thread is the tq spec.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

look up whats called a lower conversion kit. has all them gaskets plus the oil pan and a few others for about 30 bucks. ( no head gaskets or lim. just the bottom of the engine)

change the rear main seal, not the front crank seal. the odds of that one leaking are real. best to leave it alone.

the rear cover you want to rtv the bottom 2 inches of the gasket on both sides, the pan gasket do rtv on both sides of the gasket, i did a smear on the block and the pan.

that rear cover is a very low tq, the bolts maybe hand tight right now. add a dot of blue loctight to these bolts to keep them in.

So for the rear cover gasket, what your saying is RTV the entire bottom line and up 2 inches on the side? Making a shallow U shape? Also what RTV should I use? Also as i'm sitting here thinking about how i'm gonna do this and looking at my engine stand, i'm gonna have to do the rear cover gasket while it's hanging from the engine house because stand bolts to the back of the engine, right? Am I missing something? Is that safe?

i used what ever i had on hand, dont matter. where the oil pan meets the bottom of the rear cover, rtv 2 inches of each side, smear rtv on the block, (just past the dowel) install the gasket, then smear some more rtv on the gasket just past the dowel then install the cover.

having the oil pan off at this time makes life easy too. after the rear cover is bolted on, i did the oil pan asap so the rtv from the rear cover was still fresh where it meets the oil pan. rtv the block where the pan sits, then lay the gasket in, then rtv the pan, then bolt it on.

few other tips, remove the low oil sensor before you take the pan off or it will break. you need a pick to lift the plugs tab, then pull its plug off, then it just unscrews from the pan.

putting a straight edge across the bottom of rear cover to the block makes sure the cover goes on squarely too.

felpro vc gaskets, with grommets.

heres a pic i just found, see the bottom of the block the orange line is the oil pan, the two sides from the pan up, rtv just past that first bolt hole.



im no fan the pan being on before the rear cover, when you put the cover on that rtv is just gonna get wiped off by the cover.

and theres no need to trv all the way up like in the pic.

one time i had to rtv the vc. but that head had a porous surface, leaked with a new gasket, old one fromt he last owner was rtv'ed too.

if the top of the head is smooth like it should be, just wipe it down with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner, pop the new gaskets and covers on.

dont go nuts on the bolts, snug em up and thats it, once they stop going in thats all they go. go any further you'll snap one. note the shoulder on the bolt and how thin the threaded part is.

i had my engine stripped to a short block, i flipped it over on the stand and lifted it off and put it on a old tire, then did the rear cover on the ground.

engine hoist should work just fine too.

id just take it off the stand for the rear cover, take the pan off first, do rear cover, then back on the stand, do any other gaskets on your list.

rad side of the pan is the low oil sensor, un clip the plug and unscrew and remove it before you take the pan off. or it breaks.
working on a stand is so damn nice.

spark plugs are the last thing put in or they can crack, unless the manifolds are still on, then the plugs are pretty safe.

rest sounds good.

that plug is in the tranny, it can stay, off the bottom of the p/s pump is the knock sensor wire clipped to it, in line is a small plug tot he rear kr sensor harness.

once the starter is off you can get to the tc bolts.

have a jack under the tail shaft of the tranny, aka pass side to hold it up. then jack it up so its a bit higher, makes the engine coming off the tranny easier. leave the jack there after the engine is removed to keep it up, or it hits the floor.

taking the two bolts out of the p/s pump is ok, the leaving them in the pump keeps them safe.

the ac you just unbolt it from the front of the engine, and remove the bracket from its back side. lay the compressor on the frame.

kr sensor and the oil pressure, thats it back there. and you got the green one off, thats the o/p

in the block under the rear exhaust manifold, follow the wire to it. theres one on the front side too, near the starter and a/c. easier to see it for reference up front.

the booster line and hvac vac lines you just twist and pull them off.

the harness up top just flip it all to the d/s. its only on the top, nothing goes down lower. the harness is clipped to the bracket in the middle rear tho.

the rear knock sensor you could have left plugged in, you unplugged it already, why its a harness. what was clipped to the p/s pump and you unplugged is the other end of that wire.

you need to get that bracket off between the engine and tranny near the oil filter housing. having it off gives you a clear shot to the backwards bolt on the bell housing. and separates the engine and tranny of course.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

the harness up top just flip it all to the d/s. its only on the top, nothing goes down lower. the harness is clipped to the bracket in the middle rear tho

That harness i'm holding in my hand won't come up no matter how hard I tug it. Not that im yanking hard but i'm pulling harder then I'd like too. What else can be holding it down?