Thread: Distributor O-Ring leak. $2500!?

My 1994 Grand Prix GTP (3.4L DOHC) has developed an oil leak. Took it to the shop and came back with a $2500 estimate to fix it. Has anyone heard of problems with a leak from the O-Ring where the distributor is? One forum said this is where the distributor is on the 3.1L, but since it is not there on the 3.4L there is just a plug with an O-Ring.

Apparently to replace this seal, one must remove rear head and cylinders, which involved removing the cams, etc.

If anyonehas any information on this problem any help is appreciated. Spending $2500 on a car I paid $2300 for is not an idea that makes me happy.

Well it looks like, hopefully, I found an easy solution to my problem. I'll post again after trying this:

3.4L DOHC motor... YOU GOT... an OIL LEAK? The dealer/mechanic says it's an expensive repair (400 - to over 1000)? Saying the head needs to be removed to repair it? That is all true, but there's a SECRET FIX I'll get to later. To clarify your oil leak IS THE SAME as what I'm mentioning: it's an O-ring that almost always fails, it's on the oil pump shaft (1 hint is if leak is worse with engine on, drips from 2 or more spots approx inline with (but way below) the dipstick) follow the drip to source. This oil pump shaft is located where the distributor shaft on most GM V-6's is located. Due to the DOHC this leak is deep in the center of the motor (almost, if not, impossible to see). DEALER-REPAIR-BY-THE-BOOK the intake comes out along with 4 cams, front of motor, timing belt AND 1 head (mechanic then wants to do BOTH heads). HOWEVER the SECRET FIX is you need only remove the intake manifold and fuel injection rail. Remove the retaining clip, the shaft can pull up at least 1/4" JUST ENOUGH to thoroughly clean surfaces in between (originally no gasket there). It's a tight spot and it IS an oil pump so removing all oil/residue takes time and diligence. Now, get a round gasket that will fit covering the flat surface around the shaft. You need to slit the gasket or probably go with 2 halves to allow the gasket to be dry-fit nicely into position. AGAIN it's GOTTA-BE-CLEAN. Remove gasket, apply gasket sealer to engine block where gasket sits, apply sealer to bottom of gasket, set into position, using sliver of plastic, stick or Q-tip apply sealer to top of gasket and the collar piece that sets back down onto gasket, tighten, wipe excess, let sealer set. IF done right: getting it all CLEAN and your gasket is a good fit and went into position nicely this fix should last as long as the motor does. good luck, if you pull it off it saves A lot of time and MONEY! Not naming names, but if you're wondering this fix CAME FROM DEALER MECHANICS if/when their serevice-writer & customer's OK them to go-for-it, try the EZ fix (if mechanic was good IT-WAS-ALL-GOOD!
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The language is a little wierd... But The instructions are clear.

Any comments on this?

It was quoted by a mechanic shop, I don't even want to think about what the dealer would charge. But yeah, it sounds like there's an easier way to do it than the way they are trained. Ah well.

yea there is a quick fix. the o ring is 90 cents should be about 60.00 for labor

I did the same process of the above article about 8 months ago in my driveway. Worked perfectly. Just take your time and get it clean and oil free before you start. I also only used the great stuff gasket maker and no paper or rubber gasket. My oil leak before this quick fix was crazy bad. 1 quart everyday. I drive alot too. Now no leaking oil. AMAZING..TOOK AN HOUR TO DO!

Originally Posted by Gafford44

super dead.

A thread is never dead if someone still uses it. You must be super bored!!

i got this same problem on my 02 grand prix se. would i have to remove the same parts to get to the distributor?