Thread: Drivers Side CV removal from tranny question

I knew my drivers side ball joint was getting bad after 255,000 miles but I of course didn't expect it to pop out of the socket.. Saturday it did, made a horrendous noise and scared all the nice people eating outdoors, but even more concerning was that the inner cv joint separated (the tripod came out of the cup going into the tranny) and the boot broke clean off.

So I figure might at well put a new drivers side CV axle in, but wanted to check on getting the drivers side inner cv cup out of the tranny. I have a slide hammer from AutoZone and I got the little U shapped end attachment.. Any pins that have to come out first, or just pop it out with the slide hammer? Is that it for removal, just pop it out?

How about re-inserting back drivers side inner CV into the tranny - any tips or watch outs?

Also I thought I read some tranny fluid will come out - should I be concerned with a lot of fluid coming out?

Car is a 1998 Grand Prix Gt... The tranny is a relatively new rebuilt from Triple Edge performance - tranny has performed awesome - highly recommend them.

-Rob

Thanks! Since the ball joint popped out of the control arm I had to have it towed to home. Then I had the tow driver use the scissors to drop it right on top of my two jack stands in my garage

Really appreciate the suggestions though - will definitely follow your suggested technique.. I read the write up in the FAQ but this wasn't there. Also in the write up they acknowledge some may not like prying on the tranny.. a yeah - I don't want to pry on the tranny - so I'm hoping the right way with the slide hammer will pop it out..

THANKS!

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

most of use wedge a pry bar between the axle end and the tranny, and hold on to your hat. KICK THE SNOT OUT THE PRY BAR LOL it works well. have not heard of any one breaking the trans case.


oh when re installing it, you line just push it in till it clicks, then try to pull it back out, if its locked in your set. you can pop the tie rod end too to turn the knuckle further so the end of the new axle can fit to the hub.

that axle nut. if you dont have air tools, put the spare tire on then just 2 lugs lower the car so its got weight on it then take the nut off with a pipe and breaker bar. its a 34 or 36 mm. new nut is larger then the stock one. 36 mm socket works on a 34 nut. ive done it before.

Thanks more good suggestions! I thought it was a 34mm for the stock nut and guessed wrong, it's a 36mm.

I got lifetime alignment service from Firestone seven years ago. So i generally don't mind loosening the tie rod and then re-aligning when done. Problem is Firestone is becoming a real PITA with honoring the lifetime service. So now I tell them I will bring my tools and floor jack with me - any whining for why they won't align I will just fix in the parking lot..
I think part of the problem is they see 255,000 on the odometer and instantly want to deny service. Advice to other - beware of Firestone - sometimes CV axle techniques not involving the tie rod or strut is the better way to go than relying on "lifetime alignment service" from Firestone..

Thanks for all the help.. Last night I used the slide hammer and it popped right out - nice and clean. It did take a whole 5 seconds and similar to the pry bar method, getting the attachment and hammer square was key. It took about 1 minute to insert the new axle and have it click it.. When using the slide hammer, push the attachment in behind the inner CV first and then screw hammer into it after and don't use a lock nut on the slide hammer. Again thanks for all the good suggestions.

If others are interested I got the slide hammer rental-free at Autozone. The slide hammer rental part # is OEM 2033 and the end attachment is part # is OEM 27058.