Thread: Dark trans fluid

Well I'm going to guess that you have quite a few miles on that, at least in the 160-180k range?
P0742 is the torque converter clutch stuck on code. That's usually the fault of a $17 solenoid (TCC solenoid), and is accessible from the side cover. Which of course requires dropping one side of the subframe, not hard but requires a good amount of tools and time. That will probably have to get fixed, it's not going to get better.
P1811 is usually the fault of another solenoid, the PCS. This can be covered up with a shift kit, but seeing as the TCC solenoid needs replacing, you'll probably just do them both, if at all.
And loosing overdrive is the result of the 4th clutch hub failing. That takes a little more work to get into the trans, but as an average DIY'er like myself, I just replaced those 3 things in my trans not too long ago on my own.

Also those temps are not abnormal, have you checked the coolant level? What was the ambient temp outside at the time?

So at this point a shift kit and fluid filter with lucas trans stop slip may help only with P1811, but seeing as the fluid is dark that makes it iffy. How dark are we talking? And do NOT flush it, that's probably a 90% chance of killing it, especially at this point.
Do you have tools to do things like dropping a subframe a foot? It takes 2 jacks and jack stands, 33 or 36 mm socket, socket set from 13-19mm, torx bits up to T40 etc. Overall it depends on if it's worth it to you to put the time and money into it, and of course the risks of it failing from something else soon.

Well swapping an hd trans is going to require some changes to be made in the pcm's programming as the gear ratios are different. The HD's aren't all that much different either.

For 55 degrees outside, 210 does seem a little higher than what these usually run at in those temps. It could need a new thermostat or maybe a flush if the coolant is gunky. Assuming it's reading the temp correctly.

And the trans fluid looks like what?? Liquid ash? So you're saying that there are literally metal flakes in the fluid? Even just a pan drop at that point may kill it, though it would seem it's already on its last leg if thats the case. See if you can post a picture of the fluid on the dipstick with this ash.

I just had the p0742 code pop up on my car. I don't have the second code you have but my fluid was pretty dark also, sort of like the color of dr pepper or something. I just did fluid/filter change plus the stop slip and it didn't help anything. From what I've read up on my code, there are other problems causing the solenoid to get stuck and my trans has been sucking for some time now so I knew it was going to crap out sooner than later. I've just opted to do a rebuild at this point since I'm kind of figuring a new solenoid is just a temporary fix if other stuff is going on. Plus you have the other code and issues on top of the problems I'm having, it doesn't sound too good man. And sorry if all of this is a little vague, transmissions are not something I know much about. This is just pretty much a summary of what I've been reading on here

A trans swap or soleniod replacement/4th hub is probably going to take a first timer about the same amount of time.

On the HD trans.... it's the same trans except for the larger differential and shorter axle as the non HD, beyond gear ratio. And that gear ratio is because of the drive/driven gear tooth count. Otherwise, the clutches and nearly every other part is identical between the HD and non HD.

Being a GP you should have a 3.29 overall gear ratio IIRC. You could get another non-hd and a diff/diff cover from an HD with the shorter axle and not have to change programming. Then you'd have the benefits of the HD, a lower cost (if you go JY) unit and be all set.

Defiantly use lucas if it looks like that, exchange it from a quart. The fluid to buy from walmart is probably the valvoline max life fluid, they're in gallon jugs so you don't have to buy a million. 2 should be good, it will be for sure if you're using a quart of lucas.

The hoses slip right over the stock lines for the cooler. It's highly recommended to flare those lines before pushing the hose over it, so there's something for the clamp to grip onto and it doesnt get forced off with pressure. I did a half-flare since a full would have been tricky to get the hose over.

Like 02, when I've done it, I like to not flare it as much as him...but bubble the end of the line with a flare kit. Similar to what he did, just stopping once the line starts to bubble outward. Then use two fuel injection hose clamps per connection point to quadruple insure yourself based on the pressure running through the lines.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Like 02, when I've done it, I like to not flare it as much as him...but bubble the end of the line with a flare kit. Similar to what he did, just stopping once the line starts to bubble outward. Then use two fuel injection hose clamps per connection point to quadruple insure yourself based on the pressure running through the lines.

I use some sticky tacky rtv around the pipe and slide the over it typically 1-2inches an use the same clamp u do. I like the extra insurance

I end up working on it again down the road. In that case.. RTV makes the job much tougher to take apart/do again.