Thread: harsh shift + brown fluid.. problem?

Yes, in the dipstick tube. Get a funnel for ease. And when buttoning back up, make sure you torque them to the correct ft lb, I can't remember what it is off top of my head. To tight and you'll strip the aluminium, to loose and well...you get leaks.

when removing the filter theres a fat O ring that sits on the filter tube, when you take the old one off the O ring will sometime stay in there, most will just reuse the one that stayed in, or pull it out with a pick.

there is also a toque spec for the trans bolts, im not sure what it is off hand, but nice and snug works well. do not over tighten the bolts as they will break.

and that wraps up this episode of trans service 101.

i got the 15 dollar duralast filter from auto zone. i also used tractor supply trans fluid, same thing as walmarts brand. believe it or not its good stuff.

tractor supply sells 2 gallon jug for just around $30 - $35, filter 15, can of brake cleaner 3 bucks. lucas another 7 to 8 bucks. all picked up locally, no need to order this stuff. as you need to do this tomorrow.

no, "tractor supply" is a store. kinda national i think. and its traveller brand fluid sold by tractor supply.


Traveller® ATF Dexron III/Mercon Transmission Fluid, 2 gal. - 0831134 | Tractor Supply Company this cost 29.99 in my zip code.

when you ask for the filter at the store just tell then what engine you have, they will give you the right part.

not sure if the hd trans filter is the same as the non hd.

filter is the exact same.

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

no, "tractor supply" is a store. kinda national i think. and its traveller brand fluid sold by tractor supply.


Traveller® ATF Dexron III/Mercon Transmission Fluid, 2 gal. - 0831134 | Tractor Supply Company this cost 29.99 in my zip code.

Ditto. Now I know were to go to go get tranny fluid w/o being raped by the dealership. thanks.

The fluid is brown because you never wiped it on a white rag before. It's been browning. Brown is because there is a lot of clutch material in the fluid. This happens each time the clutches apply/release. Very normal.

Because this trans hasn't been serviced normally and you are having trouble, a pan drop or flush could cause slippage. The new fluid will have a lot of detergents and lubricants that have long been used up in your current fluid. A flush does not kill a trans. Waiting until you have an issue to perform normal maintenance is what kills it. aka you have a problem and now are looking for magic. It may work, may not. Pan drop is the safer way to go as it leaves about half the fluid in the trans.

Here is what I like to have for the service.
2 gallons of fluid. Dex 3 or 6. You choose.
1 large Steralite or rubber maid pan. Found in the storage section of Walmart for about $10 or less. It works great, don't judge it based on it's original/expected use.
10mm deep socket
2 cans of brake cleaner
Rags
Ratchet
Torque wrench capable of 120 inch lbs/10 foot lbs. Because there are 12 inches in each foot.
Ramps or jack and stands.

Get the car in the air, put your catch pan under and bring a few rags. Safety goggles are a good idea as well. Remove the bolts starting at the passenger end and work your way about 1/2-3/4 to the driverside on the back end of the trans. Then move to the front and get abotu 1/2-3/4. At this point likely the fluid is beginning to drip. That is good. Keep removing bolts. The pan will not drop until you have the last 2-3 loosened. By that time most of the fluid will have drained. Let it drain so that when you take those last few out the rest of the way..you don't have much fluid left.

Lower the pan and dump into the catch pan. Lay it on a large rag to be pulled out from underneath the car. Notice if the gasket has ridges in it. If it does, likely it will feel like it is rubber over a layer of metal. This is the factory gasket and expected to be lifetime. Wipe it off and look it over. Save and reuse if it's not trashed. It is a better gasket than the one in the service kit with filter.

By now the fluid is done draining. Hop under and wiggle the filter out. The piece Scotty talked about should stay in the transmission. It is the sealing collar to hold the filter in the trans. The rule and most directions in the trans service kit will tell you. "If the new filter fits into the old collar snugly, leave the old collar in the trans. If the filter is loose..put the new collar in".. If you need the new collar, say the word and I'll post some helpful tidbits on that. 95% of the time you don't change it.

Let's clean that pan. Wipe the pan off/out to get the excess off it first. Take the magnet out and clean it down. Brake cleaner is fantastic for removing oil/dirt from things. Make your pan shine inside and out. Put the magnet back into the pan and sit the pan down where you can reach it from under the car.

Spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe down your tools. Put all your bolts (20 x 10mm) into that rag and spray them off with brake cleaner, then roll them around a bit. This cleans the bolts and tools. Makes reassembling clean and easy.

Ensure the filter is in place and snuggish. Put your gasket back on the pan. Wipe down the gasket surface on the transmission. Bring the pan up and start one bolt at each end to hold the pan up. Now start all your bolts and lightly snug them. Then torque them to 10ft lbs which is 120 inch lbs.

Crawl out and bring your pan and tools with you. Put your funnel into the transmission dipstick tube and fill with approximately 6 quarts of fluid (1.5 gallons). Lower the car or start it and back it off the ramps. Now check the fluid and top it off to the top line of the full mark. Ensure later that the trans is filled properly, because adding fluid into the same tube that you measure the level with can make it difficult to read.

You are done. Clean up.

6 is used in the newer gp's and i think it's synthetic. I use 3 cuz it's cheap and so am i.

yes, you would need to drill a hole in the pan and have a drain plug wielded into it. its nice to have but it will cost to have installed, plus the parts if you cant do it yourself. and they do tend to leak sometimes if done improperly.

not really needed. but nice to have type thing.

your leaving a ton of fluid in the trans with that plug, if the inside nut is that fat. and its not draining as much sludge as it could be, the flat weld on on deal is better.

Originally Posted by kind153

Ok... I think I'll pass on the plug. As far as the testing goes...do I just drive it?
Also..how do I go about cleaning the pan?

Just drive it after to see if anything has changed. Use brake parts cleaner to clean any gum out of the pan before refilling it.