im working on my 98 gp gt. the converter clutch lock up solenoid is bad.
im aware that the side pan needs to come off. any tips to do this easily, safely, and quickly? any other things i should do while im in there?
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05-04-2011
im working on my 98 gp gt. the converter clutch lock up solenoid is bad.
im aware that the side pan needs to come off. any tips to do this easily, safely, and quickly? any other things i should do while im in there?
05-05-2011
Start off by searching my SN and side cover. You'll likely come up with the full procedure with the tools needed.
I'd say if your side cover is dirty down under the axle. Cleaning it up ahead of time would be a very nice to have type of thing. You want to keep things as clean as possible.
It's very easy, just time consuming. Has the potential to hurt you easily, so pay attention and put safety first, with every step.
Basics
Drain fluid
Pop balljoints
Pull DS axle
Unbolt rack, lines or wires from subframe
Support drivetrain
Drop sub
Lower drivetrain
Pull side cover and swap that soleniod. (Check the valve to ensure it's moving freely with your clean finger before putting the new soleniod in, your making an assumption that the soleniod is bad) I hope you've checked the switch and electrial before you go in.
Reverse disassembly.
05-05-2011
so should i replace the valve body while im in there anyways?
05-05-2011
Well if you do that, remember the below:
The checkballs must be in their correct locations. If you pull the pump and VB off with it on it's side, you are going to have them falling out. Then you'd have to goop them back in place, replace the spacer plate gaskets, the little filters in the spacer place and then the new valve body. You'd need the torque specs on each bolt and that would also have you taking out the wiring harness etc.
Honestly.. it could be a bad torque converter, bad TCC apply valve, bad soleniod. What if you toss on a VB and soleniod to find out it's the torque converter?
05-05-2011
How did you determine this solenoid was bad?Originally Posted by L36pro
05-05-2011
the symtoms matched other members, and the torque converter doesnt give me any other problems. if it is the torque converter ill just replace it too.
and what if the valve body isnt moving freely? any way to save it?
05-06-2011
Ok, first off.. you should be able to test via ohm meter to tell if the soleniod is definately bad before you rip into the trans.
If the valve doesn't move freely, then you know you probably need a valve body. If it's not moving freely because the TC spewed junk into it..then your new VB will do the same very shortly after you replace it.
That's where this is a crap shoot as to what the issue is.
05-06-2011
itll lock up most of the time, and then it will want to kick in and out on occasion. ill pull the side pan off tonight, put a new solenoid in it, and check the valvebody.
if theres chunkaroo in the valvebody ill get a new converter and flush the system best i can.
thanks for all the info bill.
05-06-2011
alright, im going to go get started. wish me luck
05-06-2011
good luck.. keep us updated. as i am going through the same issue.
05-06-2011
I took mine into a tranny shop and they said it was best to get a full rebuild since my tranny has so many miles on it already, that way you don't have to worry about something else failing after a few months.
Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
05-06-2011
wow, i thought i was gonna pull an all-nighter and have it done. i didnt realize the side pan was holding up the entire transmission.
slick: did he quote you on a rebuild?
05-07-2011
Yeah like $2,900 I was like um no thanks.
Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
05-08-2011
Same problem here, it looks like the TC is clogging up the valves and my filter. Which is causing my lack of movement. Tim king on 3800pro is building a trans for me with the "complete kit" from TEP for $1350 shipped. Hardened 4th clutch gear, updated vb, z paks, almost everything is in this kit. I'll be making a thread about it when I get it/install it.
05-09-2011
This is why I gave you the basics of removing the subframe and supporting the drivetrain, then lowering it.
FWIW I swapped a trans. Friday night in two hours it was sitting on the floor next to the new one. Three hours later the new one was being test driven.
Questions on how to do it..just holler. It's very possible and shouldn't take long. If you ask for a detailed procedure, I can toss something more indepth together for you.
05-09-2011
Bill L36Pro got the ban hammer a few days ago for being a complete asshat, this is his first thread that he hasn't started an argument with someone.
Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
05-10-2011
Ok, well I'll ask about something along the lines of the topic and won't mind if I end up hijacking this.
I am under the impression I'm in need of a solenoid replacement ('99 GTP) based on what I've been reading and I'm getting the P1811 code. I've started to notice surging when the transmission goes into torque convertor lockup. I noticed this morning, though, that it also surged before the TC locked up. Since transmissions are not my cup of tea, I'm planning to get this in to my tranny guy after crops are in. I figure he will be better equipped to see if anything further needs done while he's in there. Although, I'm sure he's aware of 4T65E issues, is there anything specific I should have him check while he's replacing the solenoid for me in terms of "known" issues?
I am planning to buy the Borg Warner upgrade from triple edge (since it seems there is no other place on the planet from which to buy it), unless someone steers me to someone else's part.
05-13-2011
My hijack attempt must have failed
Anyhow, is there a difference from the Borg Warner solenoid from Triple Edge vs. the one from Makco Distributing, aside from the price?
Solenoids and Valves
(Borg Warner) Solenoid, 4T40E / 4T65E EPC, Force motor, 1995-02 Makco Transmission Parts
05-27-2011
I paid to have this done. No more surging.
05-27-2011
Sorry I didn't see your posts.
Nice ...a pcs is a real pain right?
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