These motors dont idle very smoothly so an exhaust leak wouldnt help.
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04-11-2011
These motors dont idle very smoothly so an exhaust leak wouldnt help.
04-12-2011
it was running pretty good tonight. it was raining. i know that rain affects your air/fuel ratio in a carbeurated vehicle. maybe its still running lean? where are all possible points for a vacuum leak? and whats the best way to check?
04-12-2011
All of the vacuum lines and the LIM gasket where the LIM meets the block and heads.
When the "plenum" meets the LIM. and TB.
Spray carb cleaner, listen for idle change.
04-12-2011
i already replaced the lim, the plenum gasket, and throttle body gasket. its got a brand new fpr line as well. could it be the lock up torque converter? seems like it could be locking and unlocking. although it does it in both third and forth.
04-12-2011
matt your avatar is hilarious
04-13-2011
it could be the converter.
but when replacing the LIM gaskets you normally end up breaking the vacuum lines.
They need replacing because they've dry rotted due to age.
04-13-2011
For the love of god, please please please please check the rubber "T" on the vacuum line right off your lower intake manifold. This is a vacuum leak. In fact, pull the thing off an inspect it for a tear, even if it looks good.
04-13-2011
what are your mods?
04-13-2011
er rockers, hv3, 1.0pcm, res and ubend delete. soon to top swap
04-23-2011
what T are you talking about. im talking about the 3.8 theres no T on it
04-24-2011
He's thinking about a s/c'd car.
you just have the two lines off the front of the TB and all of the rest is simply gasket issues if they exist.
What is your IAC at when the car is warmed up and idling?
04-24-2011
Idle air control? idk i just replaced it last summer. did it before that, still doing it
04-24-2011
i would spray starter fluid all around the throttle gaskets, and all around the intake gaskets. u could be leaking. if the rpms raise a little then u prob do. quick easy backyard test.
04-25-2011
For the fluctuation, my guess is the torque converter. If you have a scan tool, drive down the road and if you can, manually lock in the torque converter while going down hill. If your RPM jumps stop, than that's probably your issue. And you can check your TCC slippage and duty cycle.
04-25-2011
ok explain to me how to do all of that. ive been thinking it was the converter for almost a year but couldnt get anybody to confirm it. ive got an SES scan tool, but thats it.
04-26-2011
how do you lock it manually?
04-26-2011
You need a good scanner with capability of 2-way communication. I don't know exactly which ones will work, but I know it's gonna be expensive. I've got my eye on the autoenginuity laptop-based scanner. You'd need the base scan package plus the GM pack. ~400 total if you get the base scanner on ebay.
I agree I think TCC is most likely. Also, I like propane for vacuum leaks. Less messy, less risk of fire.
04-26-2011
the motor is tight. theres no leaks. all new gaskets, new LIM gasket, new plenum, new MAF, TPS, MAP, IACV, PCV valve, etc. new fuel pump, new injectors, new plugs, wires, all new coil pack. in fact the only things i havent touched are the ICM, CPS, and O2 sensor. no codes, no check engine light. idk what to do.
the exhaust manifold gaskets are leaking. picked up a set. im gonna swap them out when i get a chance but havent gotten round to it.
04-26-2011
what would cause the torque converter to do that? is it a bad converter, or a bad signal?
04-27-2011
I use a Snap On Solus scan tool that allows two way communication as T0pwater said. I'm guessing component wear would be the reason. I had a remaned w/ 5k on it and I had that issue happen. Tried clearing tranny adapt settings and so on, nothing worked, but we did get it to lock in via the scan tool. Needless to say, my tranny was replaced under warranty.
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