Cryo Treating?

**scootcoupe91** · 05-17-2010

So I have read quite a bit about the gains that there are to be had when cryogenically treating engine parts and a couple sites that provide cryo services even offer cryo for transmissions. I lost fourth gear on friday and the transmission is in the garage right now being take apart and I figured that I might as well take the opprotunity to beef it up a bit. Here is what I plan on doing

Trannyman's master kit with the z pack
-I need the steels as they are burnt in the fourth clutch pack
Hardened fourth clutch hub
GXP transmission chain Transtar part # 51973E
- Supposedly it is a stronger chain and has been heat treated a little
differently, I need a chain anyways
ZZP Shift kit
-Not going for a crash bang shift, just slightly firmer
Possibly Cryo treating the input shaft, should be $15 or $20 with shipping and all vs. the $300 that zzp wants for theirs.

All in all I would like to make the transmission hold up to low 13 second passes on street radials and I am mainly wondering if anyone has done any sort of cryo treating of parts and what kind of gains can be expected. Also when, as far as time in the 1/4 mile, do the input shafts usually give out?

**Bio248** · 05-17-2010

to hold up to that power level a stock transmission would be fine. 4th gear wouldnt be the thing to break because of power.

**scootcoupe91** · 05-17-2010

Ok thanks bio. What is the purpose of switching over to a converter from a gt? I saw that it is 245mm converter vs the gtp's 258mm but I don't recognize the purpose of doing such a thing.

If trannyman sees this then I will get photos up of all of the clutches and bands but the manual 2-1 band is smoked, reverse band is iffy in the center and burnt on the outer portion and the forward apply band is the same as the reverse. I know the car has 160k miles on it but I still don't think that those bands should be burnt unless they are slipping, and in that case I would be suspect of low line pressure.

Hey bio, what are the stock trans with a mild shift kit and the gxp gemini chain good for as far as hp and 1/4 mile times?

**Bio248** · 05-17-2010

honestly, dont know the reason between the converters or which one would be better. i just know you need the right flex plate for the right converter to be able to run it on the motor.

it would be beneficial for a rebuild to put in some better clutches, but once you start talking hard parts your bill goes significantly up. if you're shooting for a low 13 second car then you really dont need the hard parts anyway (including the input shaft, to answer your question from the first post).

i am a firm believer that shift kits are a waste since you can tune the transmission just like you tune your car. up the line pressure and shift times and it will do the same thing as a shift kit, but the transmission will be doing it on its own without help from external pieces that weren't there from the factory. i have no idea about the gxp chain, but i know the stock one is good for a lot. the only other GOOD option is the GM 1" chain, but it's no longer being sold so you're best staying stock.

either way, you're not going to go fast enough to warrant a big transmission build. when you start pushing low 12s and high 11s is when the transmission hard parts start to explode on their own. so long as you dont drive like a tool you'll be fine.

**scootcoupe91** · 05-17-2010

I figured that driving habits would definitely play a big role in the longevity of the transmission. What kinds of things should I avoid to give it a hand. How many transmission have you gone through bio?

I may either start another thread or add on to this one as I will do my best to chronicle the whole process.

**Bio248** · 05-17-2010

i went through one transmission. it had 135k miles on it, all of which were beating miles. i also had recently got a tune for my 3.2 pulley and meth shortly before that so the car got a whole bunch more fun to beat on. (i owned a GT with an L67 swap, so i had a non-HD tranny)

things to do to save your transmission:

- burnouts are a no go unless you are SURE you're spinning both tires evenly
- lots of throttle in a corner (spinning one wheel faster than the other = bye diff)
- no 3-1 downshifts, 4-2 arent as bad
- very hard launches, especially with slicks (hard parts break here)

those are just a few things. always make sure that your fluid is clean and full, etc. take care of your transmission and it will last.

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