If you're pondering whether or not to dig into things, check this video out (note, he makes this look easy)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31Q8qJvBn-M
Forgot to mention to be careful with that tool I mentioned, I usually improvise with parts of "modified" steels. Basically, one the second clutch piston spring, you'll usually bend it with this tool unless you "extend" it with some metal ring (you'll see what I'm talking about on the rebuild dvd).
The biggest advice I can give though is to be EXTREMELY organized and take pictures of EVERY step. Pay special attention to the spring colors and such when removing. I wasted hours on my first rebuild because I didn't do this (so learn from my mistakes!). Clean everything as you go (a parts cleaner helps a lot, pick up the cheap desktop one at harbor freight, some brushes, and tack cloths) and label/bag it as you go too. Organization is key.
It's not a necessity, but I'd have a good set of six sided sockets because some of the bolts tend to round off (especially the ones reference in the video). Use lock-tight on everything putting it back together and use ample assembly lube and fluid where needed.
You will want to flush your transmission cooler portion of your radiator, and get a new torque converter (which is why it ended up costing me $500 total)
One thing the video didn't go over at all is what to do when starting up the new transmission. You'll want to fill the new torque converter with about a quart or two of fluid (till it's full), install everything, pour about half of what you need in, start the car and let it idle and immediately dump the rest in like mad! Slow when you're about done and periodically check levels as it warms up. Take for a short drive, re-check levels, and done!
I recommend DEX6. Makes a world of difference. Feel free to PM me with any questions!