Installing Shift Kit issues

**WarStryker13** · 08-16-2016

It could be one of the lines, if the valve body went dry, the trans wouldn't go into gear, or shift.

The loud noise when going into park could have been the sprag attempting to engage.

**rottonj** · 08-16-2016

No idea why you would risk driving the car after you knew the spring you installed was incorrect . When you tear it open add this Sonnax tube retainer to it, I am including a link from Amazon because it shows a very good picture. The part is 2 bucks on Rock Auto.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnax-84532-...ords=84532-01k

**WarStryker13** · 08-16-2016

I've driven on shadier fixes, sometimes you need to get somewhere and failure to try is not an option.

**nickolaughagus** · 08-16-2016

Haha^

Okay guys I'm feeling much more lighthearted about my situation now that I have learned what happened. The CV Axle that I installed did not clip in properly, so when I went into reverse and hit the driveways bump while turning, the axle pooped out of the transmission. The LSD of course delivered all power to the resistance-less bearing, thus explains the element where I couldn't feel shifts and I couldn't accelerate at all.

I am taking it all apart tonight, and will be Re installing the axle. I will then be putting all my love into the Tranny, but I need to ask a few questions.

The tranny was definitely doing some funky stuff to some extent when I drove it last night. On acceleration, I found that the revs would rise up quite a bit before the tranny slow shifted and hard shifted into gear stiffly. It did this very consistently, in all gears. At the time, my tranny was over filled with fluid I believe. I also may have been reaching higher revs than normal before I shifted, but that could be due in part to my tune that I'm currently running. I haven't messed with my new software for about a week, so I have forgotten.

Anyhow, I kept my old transmission fluid, and I will have to drain my pan again to check the pan bottom and also to Re check my lines to the accumulator. Any recommendations on this task? I will not have time to buy any parts online, including the stock spring and the clamp, but I can wing it with auto store parts if you give me ideas. Also, to stop the slip should I throw in a qt or 2 of my old tranny oil?

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**WarStryker13** · 08-16-2016

Originally Posted by rickisrad

I believe this is the spring you will need. if not follow the parts diagram. Rock auto should have it. Also make sure the lines are seated properly. http://www.w-body.com/topic/32115-4t...install-guide/

ACDELCO 24203977 GM Original Equipment Info
Category: Accumulator Spring

$5.46

take this info to every local parts store or auto shop/trans shop until one of them says they have one. That's your best bet...

For the fluid, put in 6 quarts of the newest fluid. Start the car, on a level surface, and let it run, checking every 2-3 minutes and adding until it hits halfway in the hash marks on the dipstick. Test drive around the block, babying it, then park and check it again. Add if it needs it, and see how it does once you are 100% sure that the fluid level is correct.

You can swap a quart or two of the old fluid in, if you really want to.

**rottonj** · 08-16-2016

Go straight to a transmission shop, why dick around with parts stores who probably wont have them.

**WarStryker13** · 08-16-2016

I have no idea as to what he has near him... therefore I listed possible options.

**rottonj** · 08-17-2016

Its all good, just trying to save him some time.There are too many of these transmissions on the road for a transmission shop not to have one, in theory lol.

**rickisrad** · 08-17-2016

Better to do it right and wait for the correct parts. Rock auto will have the part to you within a couple days. The dealer may be able to get it within a day. I believe the spring is around $12 from the dealer. One quart of Lucas will be fine. Best to filter the old fluid. You can use a small screen or even a sock (preferably a clean one). I know it sucks waiting but I like doing things correctly because it will prevent major issues in the future.

**nickolaughagus** · 08-18-2016

I got the CV axle fixed last night, had to buy a new one from Advanced Auto Parts to replace the bad O Reillys axle. I then topped off the Transmission fluid and took it for a drive.

It feels amazing with the new shift kit. Downshifts deliver nearly instantaneous power, and upshifts feel pretty good as well. There is one gear that I am having problems with though. Oddly enough, the 1-2 Upshifts are the only problem.

According to my butt dyno, I can feel the transmission go to shift, but it slips I guess, bc the rpms climb a little and you can feel the car accelerate a little more, and then it kicks in gear VERY firmly, almost chirping the tires into 2nd. It really doesn't feel good, and it seems hard on the car. I only feel it at WOT, and it happens regardless of Performance mode being engaged. The shift time is .4 seconds, and its shift time table is setup to be half .2s and half .1s on the PCM, via DHP.

I didn't have issues in this gear before, but this is the accumulator that had the broken spring originally. (Now the rigged springs are in the 2-3 accumulator, and they feel great so far.)

My Dad, who is all about cars like me, didn't seem to feel anything wrong with the upshift when he drove it, and he thought it just felt really sporty. I think a .4 second shift time is bad, and it feels even worse.

Is there a way that I can tune this issue out? I am considering changing the shift time tables to .01 seconds in the positions that would correlate to WOT - perhaps that could fix/mask the issue.

Anyways, serve me away with your opinions if you wish! I just wanted to update everyone.

Thanks for all the help, I will definitely be installing the springs and clamps next time I service the fluid and filter, at 160K miles, unless I drop the pan before that.

**BillBoost37** · 08-18-2016

The trans is meant to work based on certain parts. Parts that currently aren't in your trans. Once you get the right spring and install the lube tube retainer, it'll very likely be much better as long as you didn't let the smoke out while driving on the wrong spring.

**rickisrad** · 08-18-2016

The 1-2 seems to be a common issue. I read somewhere it has to do with one of the solenoids being covered with particles. It eventually wears out the clutches. It will run forever with this issue. It will get worse in stop and go traffic. I dealt with it for years until I decided to replace the trans for a high performance one.

**rickisrad** · 08-18-2016

The feeling may also change once the trans relearns.

Congrats on getting back on the road!! You will find That aftermarket cv axles are crap. If you have anymore issues I would buy an used OE axle from Morads or junkyard. A used OE is better than any aftermarket one. I bit the bullet and bought a new OE axle and it fit so much better.

**nickolaughagus** · 08-23-2016

Okay guys, everything about the transmission seems to be In good shape, except for one major issue...

3rd gear seems to be pretty messed up. I have the new accumulator spring coming, but anyhow, I am not certain that it is causing the issue.

If I am at WOT, the transmission will try shifting out of 2nd, but it doesn't go anywhere but the Rev limiter unless I let off. Once letting off, it goes into 3rd gear, and holds 3rd, but if I accelerate anything over like 30% the RPMs will slip up until basically it's driving in 2nd.

Same for 4-3... I can downshift into 3rd fine, but when I try accelerating anything slightly heavier than a feather, it will slip into 2nd.

Basically, only cruising in 3rd works. I have checked the fluid level, and it's right in the middle of the hashed area. I have Lucas trans slip in there too.

I had a custom tune in there originally but I felt these issues and then I flashed stock. It seemed like the issues were fixed, but they're definitely still there.

Any ideas? I didn't notice this issue until about 3 days after I was driving on the new fluid, and it was definitely shifting out of 2nd fine at the time.

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**rottonj** · 08-24-2016

Ok I will say it.

. Why are you at WOT with incorrect parts in your transmission. Unbelievable, bring it to a transmission shop.

**SaukRapids** · 08-24-2016

I dropped in and say mines in and running fine...with the correct parts.

Dude...the accumulator is right there. Would it have killed ya to check a JY? I hope a man at a shop has some good news.

**nickolaughagus** · 09-06-2016

I got the correct part in and took my car in, since it didn't fix the problem. The shop I took it to said that the symptoms were due to my 3rd clutch going out. He said it likely was caused from lots of slipping due to the new fluid not allowing the clutchpacks to do their job properly, and its very common after a higher mileage fluid change. He wanted to do a full rebuild. By the way I would also like to mention that I spoke with 2 other transmission shops in STL a while back and they both said using that accumulator spring would not cause any issues with the tranny, other than slightly changing the shift profile.

I also spoke with a Trans-go specialist and he said, "the car would not engage 4th gear if 3rd gear clutches were out, and that my situation doesn't make any sense."

So now, I turn to you guys for any helpful opinions or ideas.

I just bought a transmission from the yard, and I am getting ready to do a swap, because I am out of ideas.

Is there any kind of diagnosis I can do to see if its simply a solenoid or something?
Would 4th gear work if 3rd does not?

I will be begin dropping my transmission tomorrow.

**WarStryker13** · 09-06-2016

You wouldn't have 4th if 3rd was out, and if you want to pull the side cover you can check all of the solenoid with a multimeter.

Regardless, if the shift kit didn't fix it, it needs hard parts. The swap will give you plenty of time to decide whether to go farther with this car and build it to go fast, or leave the jy trans in and keep it stock.

**nickolaughagus** · 09-07-2016

I took it all apart in one last ditch effort to troubleshoot before dropping the trans.

You guys are going to shake your heads... Lol. I missed this on the 2nd pan drop, when I put in the correct spring.

I just discovered that although the 2-3 accumulator piston seal is not torn, it is heavily worn 2/3 of the way around the piston, to the point where basically there is no seal there. The bore and piston are both moderately scored.

According to some of the reading I've done, this could actually cause missing gears and slipping.

If my seal was okay when I did the rebuild, perhaps I put the piston in at an angle or something, causing the rubber to shave itself away over the 3 day period, steady holding less and less pressure, until it no longer held any.

Hopefully I still have some 3rd clutch.

I will be using a bore and piston set from the core I picked up, then take it for a test drive. If it's not in working condition still, I'll begin the swap tonight. I'll keep yall posted.

BTW Shout out to BillBoost for one of his posts that contains all sorts of 4T65E resources. It's an instrumental part of self diagnosing these things, I don't understand why it isn't stickied.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=42428

EDIT: I had faith but the problem is unchanged. Time die a swap.

**rickisrad** · 09-08-2016

It looks like the spring was not properly seated. Doesn't the Transgo shift kit come with new seals?? I may be mistaken but I thought mine did. You definitely need to replace that. Is that the piston you used the wrong spring in?